model 50 JD

I had a mechcanic work on my tractor and he said he had to shim the flywheel and not to drive or use the tractor it could brake the flywheel or crank (said theres a wobble to it) and its a 2,500.00 dollar fix. Got the tractor back and held the shaft end of a micrometer against the block and the point next to side of flywheel and turned over by hand. It was good except about 2 or 3 inches it moved in from point so held a straight bar stationary from block to tire in front of flywheel and that had some wobble from front to back but don't understand how you can fix that without turning it on a lathe. I'm new at this so could someone explain what he means. I drove the tractor at his house before loading it and it runs great and feels smooth also couldn't see any shims in splines so figuring they must be very small.
 
That was the weak point on most two cylinders. If the flywheel splines aren't wore out than the splines for the clutch are.

The shims are small. I'm guessing about 1/4 wide by two or three inches long.

Dad use to make shims out of coffee cans for his tight wad customers that wouldn't spend enough money to fix correctly. Guess it worked. Don't remember any of them coming back.
 

A gasser two cylinder does not stress crankshaft flywheel splines and have problems like a 70/720/730 diesel . In fact 70/720/730 crankshaft spline and flywheel problems would be a rare oddity . If every tractor had been serviced with new bolts, clean splines and actually using a torque wrench. Instead of guessing the torque by hand.
50 cranks and flywheels are common enough and low cost.
 
rrlund I'm on the same page withya so far 2500 plus another 1500 in other parts and a plus my labor comment at the end of each but want others advice before I do something stupid and acually break the tractor because I really dont know. I'll take all the advice I can get so everyone please reply
 
That is not a "weak spot" on the two-cylinder tractors. It is only a weak spot on tractors that are not taken care of properly. Mike
 
I still haven't had a post to tell me how to determine if I can drive it without ending up trashing the tractor. good looking tractor with just a couple of dings in the sheet metal hate to ruin a nice piece of equipment.
 
All I can tell you on the subject is what I know from the 730 diesel that I had. Those were known for hammering flywheels to pieces. An old 2 cylinder guy here sold me some grade 8 fine thread bolts,told me to use a 3/4 inch drive socket and breaker bar with six feet of pipe on it,then stand on the pipe. Just using a little 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and tightening by hand won't do the job.
 
(quoted from post at 12:19:25 01/08/15) All I can tell you on the subject is what I know from the 730 diesel that I had. Those were known for hammering flywheels to pieces. An old 2 cylinder guy here sold me some grade 8 fine thread bolts,told me to use a 3/4 inch drive socket and breaker bar with six feet of pipe on it,then stand on the pipe. Just using a little 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and tightening by hand won't do the job.

I've been told that going over 300lbft will start breaking the web in the flywheels.
 

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