removing sleeves

??Has anyone made a sleeve puller to remove sleeves from a123 IHC farmall engine??
I attempted WITH out success to drive them out using a wooden block / only split the block.
[I am wanting to replace all the sleeve seals and to hone the sleeve on the drill press while they are out.]
thank you for your assistance.
Wm.
 

Not for a Farmall but for others. I throw something together built around a big 7/8 fine thread bolt. I do it in two stages. I use a heavy piece of steel under the sleeve to break it loose and pull it up to just shy of the block, then switch to something lighter that is cut to come up through the bore. Up top I block the cross piece up as the sleeve comes up.
 
You need a sleeve puller like Keith made for his Super C. The overall diameter at the bottom of the sleeve and the inside diameter would be needed to have a puck machined to fit your old sleeves. If it was my engine I would install a new sleeve kit. Your local auto machine shop can press them out. I used a block of wood and a big hammer on a Farmall A on the sleeves after removing some of the pistons. I had a sleeve with a stuck piston and I used a torch to free the piston after it was removed. I used the old rods on the new sleeve kit that had new pistons. Hal
a176950.jpg
 
A couple of suggestions. Put some penetrating oil around the sleeves in the water jacket and clean the ODs on the crankcase side. When you hone, clamp the sleeve from the ends so you don't distort the bore.
 
My son had one sleeve on his daughters H that was stubborn. I took one of the sleeves that he had already removed and cut two sections out of it, telescoped one section into the other for a guide, then welded a thick plate on the end. A bolt up through the middle - it popped it right out. They were replacing all of the sleeves, so salvage wasn't an issue.
 
Have you measured the inside of the bores? Odds are they are worn . New round and true sleeves without wear on the inside and corrosion on the outside are not big $.
The whole proper set with sleeves, pistons, pins and rings are reasonable. I would assume that Kim's sponsors here will sell a set.
Odds are slim that you want extra HP for pulling but.........I'll bet it will run better if the worn cam and followers are sent out to be re-ground true and accurate.
 
Yup, trying to drive wet sleeves out with a wooden block is only slightly better than trying to drive them out with a block of hard rubber. Both will absorb the shock of the blow. I use a steel bar to get the full shock of the blow directly on the sleeve.

Bar and hammer in picture.
Picture2045-vi.jpg
 
A wood block works just fine but you have the lay it so it goes across the grain of the wood but with the grain of the wood. I have done a very good many with a wood block and never yet had a problem
 
Do the sleeves stick down low enough so you could push them out with this? This is a picture of a Sleeve Pusher I made to remove the sleeves from the Buda Engine in my Cockshutt. The pistons were all rusted solid to the sleeves BUT the sleeves stuck down below the bore in the Block about 3/4' The short rectangular tube goes over the end of the piston and pushes on the sleeve. Worked Great.
Sleeve Pusher 1

Sleeve Pusher 2
 
(quoted from post at 06:12:35 12/19/14) You need a sleeve puller like Keith made for his Super C. The overall diameter at the bottom of the sleeve and the inside diameter would be needed to have a puck machined to fit your old sleeves. If it was my engine I would install a new sleeve kit. Your local auto machine shop can press them out. I used a block of wood and a big hammer on a Farmall A on the sleeves after removing some of the pistons. I had a sleeve with a stuck piston and I used a torch to free the piston after it was removed. I used the old rods on the new sleeve kit that had new pistons. Hal
a176950.jpg
his is the best way^^^
 
I grabbed a socket just the right size, put a two inch length of pipe against it, and used the floor jack (engine still in M). When they pop loose it will about make you wee wee down your leg. You've got to have some pretty big sockets (the one I needed was a three and something inch) but I have a set for machinery and implements. It gets used more for stuff like that than actually nuts and bolts.
 
I made 1 to pull 4020 sleeves, I turned a solid piece of stock down so it barely caught the outside of the sleeve and so it'd slide thru the block then turned it so the puller was fairly tight inside the sleeve to keep centered, I drilled a hole thru the center for a threaded rod then cut a piece of pipe larger than the sleeve to lay on top of the block. a good strong piece of flat across the top with a hole for the threaded rod and for me it worked fairly easily.
 
You should clean that block area under the sleeve seals for any crud that may block coolant circulation. The bottom outside diameter of your sleeves should be 3.4375." Your local machine shop can machine a puck to clear the block bore and to undercut the puck to fit the inside diameter of the sleeve. Have the puck drilled and tapped for the 3/4 all thread.

I used a piece of 2x2 oak and a big hammer on a Farmall A in 1975 to remove the sleeves. I also pulled the engine. Some pistons came out with the sleeve and I used a torch to remove the pistons. I used the old rods on the new pistons that came with the sleeve kit and seals. I used a light coating of dish detergent on the sleeves
on the outer lip surface so they would slide into the seals easily. I also pulled the crankshaft as it was slightly worn and had it polished. I bought all the bearings from them. Hal
PS: We only had a Polaroid camera in 1975.
a177336.jpg
 
I think he planned to re-use the sleeves. When I wotrked in a shop we never re-used them but used an old plunger pin from s hay baler and hit the pin with a heavy hammer. You could break the sleeve this way.
 
(quoted from post at 20:52:17 12/23/14) I think he planned to re-use the sleeves. When I wotrked in a shop we never re-used them but used an old plunger pin from s hay baler and hit the pin with a heavy hammer. You could break the sleeve this way.

False economy to re-use.
 
A few years back (2008)I did a series of pictures as I rebuilt an engine for one of my C Allis Chalmers that is now my main lawn and manure mulching mower. I used all salvaged parts except for gaskets, seals and rings. The sleeves were all removed as the picture shows with no damage to the sleeves on the bottom. All the sleeves and pistons were bore gaged and measured along with the bearings. I did use Chevy valves in a .150 milled head with new guides. This fall I used this tractor to mulch manure into 4 acres of alfalfa and grass with a Woods 59 belly mower as high as the front tires in second gear pulling a disc and packer. Used parts but not out of spec. parts. Not all used parts are wore out.
I was inspired by Dick Trickle building and keeping his race car winning with engine parts out of junk yards in his early days. For years Dick Trickle's only income was his race winnings before NASCAR.
If you don't measure or know the specs, all bets are off.
 
I removed many sleeves (with motor in). Cut a 2x4 made of hard OAK to fit sleeve (pine is too soft, it will split off). Cut a regular 2x4 to fit the length of a floor jack. Put solid upward pressure with a floor jack. Put a bungy cord over top of sleeve because they will pop and fly upward. If the motor is out you would have to somehow secure the block so the block doesn't go up as you push it up with the jack.
 

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