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Replace Starter Terminal on AC Model B

D

dcwatson84

New User
I have an old Allis Chalmers Model B, and Im
rewiring some of the ignition components. The
starter has a copper "pad" terminal on the
bottom (usually covered by the push button
starter switch). It was tough to find
information on these "pad" terminals - and Im
not even certain that the term "pad" is
correct. So If it doesnt make sense then I may
have to attach a picture.

Either way - Id like to replace that pad
terminal with a bolt/post terminal, and wire
the switch elsewhere. Is this possible?

I dont see an intuitive way to remove that
terminal - it doesnt seem to be threaded.
Right now the only option I see is to leave the
push switch, and just lock it into the "on"
position with a plastic zip tie (though that
feels like a very unreliable hack job).

I'd appreciate any tips!
 
Is there a starter/alternator repair shop near you? They could probably modify it for you, find a suitable insulator and stud, solder it in.
 
Update:

So I tried to "unscrew" the pad terminal, since it had some straight edges. What I did not realize was that the end of the bolt was soldered to two un-insulated flat copper wires inside the starter, so turning it broke these contacts.

However at least now I know that I can indeed remove the bolt. Would the best course of action now be to insert another threaded bolt and solder it back to the two pieces of copper? Or is there a more reliable way to attach it?

Should I get a copper bolt (hard to find) or would brass work?

Here are pictures of the terminal:

<a href='https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/cznrpH7405lk2cZC9ofFxNaGQyzJSslZCmhCMZze38keJkmvsBDwx6uoW5L5unNsXGYqyiZAIdg=w1209-h772'>top</a><br/><a href='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ltdBmhX5IZjlsh4RRQ3tZVwGWUYIuy_lNU1t1nr8oU15o3JYalvAQGwLi-CdwPAHc2L_UlVwths=w1209-h772'>bottom</a>
 
The stud you have was installed from the outside, with the threads and nut on the inside of the starter.

The nut was snugged up, then the heavy copper leads from the field coils were soldered in place into a slot in the end of the stud.

To change this over, the copper bus bars need to be unsoldered using a "soldering copper" and the remaining solder removed so the nut can be removed and the stud taken out of the starter "belly".

Then, a new stud gets installed in the opposite direction, from the inside out, using the appropriate insulating washers. This is a different type of stud with slots in the HEAD end, into which the copper field leads get soldered, again with a "soldering copper".

Now, you have a stud to attach a cable from the solenoid to.

<img src = "https://img0.etsystatic.com/000/0/6631199/il_570xN.316083242.jpg">
Soldering copper which is pre-heated with a torch, then used for soldering, so no flame is needed at the point of soldering.
 
Can't access the pictures. It sounds like the question now is whether there's enough of those straps left to solder to a stud. I have replaced those studs, but not in a long time. And I have never switched one over the way Bob describes, and you want to. But either way, you need to find a stud, and figure out if it can be re-soldered. Have you got a local auto/electrical shop?
 
Perfect description of the solution! That was sort of what I was thinking, but I wasnt sure exactly what I should look for as a stud replacement.

Does the type of stud youre mentioning have a specific name? The only thing I could find was a copper split-bolt, but that seems to have a split all the way through, which doesnt seem necessary.

These links might work better:
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7eL7BH54ZMsYjY5MVFfZUNSLUU&authuser=0">top</a><br/>
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7eL7BH54ZMsYjY5MVFfZUNSLUU&authuser=0">bottom</a>
 
correct link for top:

<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7eL7BH54ZMsV2RNTW9saWJ1X28&authuser=0">top</a>
 
I believe I've found what you're talking about, a "field coil bolt".

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/350387870278?lpid=82

Now if only I could find one around town!
 
Used to make this joint on Delco starters for John Deere by using a large pair of old straight jaw vise grip pliers heated almost red hot and clamped to the terminal and adding solder to it. This eliminated the need for flame and also kept the joint clamped for cooling with out movement,
 
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