1952/53 Case VAC engine rebuild

i am on the final stages of putting the engine back together on a case VAC, as i had to replace the camshaft. A Few issues
1) When putting back the Crankshaft, the parts Diagram is showing 3 parts that appear to go on AFTER the Crank gear (vt 3225) The parts diagram shows them as T 3220/VT3373 and VT3380, However, my son and I don't recall any parts that go In Between the Crank Gear and the pulley...possible these are really not necessary? I can email a diagram if needed.
2) Does anyone have a sequential list of things i need to do to get timing on track? Here is my understanding
a) Line up the Cam and Crank Markings
b) Turn the engine until the fly wheel markings line up
c) Get #1 cylinder to TDC
d) Adjust tappets to 1/16 inch ....go from Tappet to tappet by cranking engine
e) Install Distributor, and again, make sure #1 is TDC, and rotor is on #1

Any better suggestions?

Well that would work I would install the distributor after ensuring the crank and cam marks line up. Not gonna get ant more tdc than that. Not sure what the timing marks on the flywheel do on a vac case not having been there before on a this model. The crank gear could be any number of things. In some cases the crank gear was one piece sometimes it can have an oil shield type of thing on it. May be a different gear than originally installed at the factory. The crank gear on my 450 crawler Is like this.

1. A parts breakdown would be very helpful. Typical items behind the crank pulley are an oil slinger, crank key, oil seal, possibly a felt dust seal... But could be something as important as a spacer, don't know without seeing it, but you want to make sure, nothing would have been in there without a purpose!

2. Timing the cam is accomplished by lining up the mark on the crank gear and the cam gear. Timing the distributor is best done after the head is on and the valve trane is assembled and adjusted. Hand turn the engine clockwise, with your finger over the #1 spark plug hole turn the engine until you feel compression. Continue turning until the flywheel mark comes into view. Stop turning a few degrees before top center. Install the distributor with the rotor pointing to #1 cap post. Connect the primary wire to the coil, turn ign on, slightly turn the distributor housing the same direction the rotor turns until the points are closed, then slowly rotate the housing opposite direction the rotor turns until the points just open, you should see the points spark. Snug down the distributor, it will be close enough to start.

3. Setting the valves... I've never know an engine to set at 1/16"! That's .062, typically engines set in the .010" to .015" range. You need to check the shop manual to find out for sure. A shop manual is a very good investment BTW!

There are many formulas for setting valve clearance, but the surest method is to pull the plugs, and slowly turn the engine through by hand. Using the proper feeler gauge, find the loosest point as each rocker goes through a full motion. I like to start it up, get it warmed up, then recheck them. Also make sure the rockers are properly oiling.

steve/anyone,
Can you tell me if the outer thrush washers and
thrust plates are visible? In other words, when
i pull off the Crank gear, should i actually see
the outer thrust washer and the Thrust plate, or
is it the case that the outer thrust washer/plate
lie inside of the engine blocK>

The service manual specifies a 0.014" tappet gap on both the intake and exhaust valves.

Here is what the diagram shows,

VT-3220 oil slinger
-This must be slipped onto the crankshaft next to the crankshaft gear before the engine's front cover is installed

VT-3373 oil seal
-This is installed into the front cover

VT-3380 dust seal
-This is installed into the front cover

Yes, you will actually see the thrust plate when you remove the crank gear. Also, there should be two thrust washers, one on either side of the main bearing cap. You should be able to see both from under the engine, and you should be able to get at the outer one by removing the crank gear and the thrust plate. However, you will not be able to get at the one on the inside of the main bearing cap unless you remove the crankshaft. The shims are pinched between the end of the crankshaft and the thrust plate. When you reset the crankshaft endplay, you may need to remove shims until you get an end play of 0.003"-0.005". If you check the endplay with a feeler gauge before pulling the crankshaft gear, then you will know how many shims to remove without having to install and remove the crankshaft pulley multiple times (you must be able to measure the thickness of the shims in any case).

is the outer thrust plate held in place by pins? The pins are sheared on the outside, so they are sheared even with the block
i was going to pound them out, but i was afraid the pins might hold the inner washer also, and then i'd create more of a problem.
so do the same pins hold the inner and the outer together?