Shift Knob Removal - John Deere 302A

Trying to remove shift knobs in order to replace torn shifter boots. These puppies are really on there. Not sure if they are screw on or press on. Can't see any threads.

Can you remove these without destroying them? Sprayed them with Liquid Wrench before heading home today.

On a side note, should I grease the tops of shaft bases as long as I am at it here? Thinking added protection?

Thank you in advance.

LN

I think those are the same as a 1020. I never did figure out how to get them off. Take the snap ring off at the bottom and pull the shift out and slip them on from the bottom up if you can't get the nobs off. The shifts are just tapered at the bottom.

The knobs are threaded. 3/8" fine-thread.

Thanks, I'll make another attempt at it tomorrow.

LN

As you already noticed, they get stuck and hot to
heat to loosen without ruining. I've had to repair
several tractors that burnt up in fires and had to
replaced every knob. Thus why I know they are
threaded.

Thanks Jdemaris, the 301 were like the 1020's, the 302A's are much more modern, so yes, I think you are right. Suggested that I stay as far away from the 1010/1020 JD models as possible, so I "thought" I did.

Got to take my mother out and about yesterday, so didn't get up to the farm. Will be up this morning.

The penetrating oil should have had time to work now. Will try this morning and will post result.

THX,

LN

1010s have nothing in common with 1020s. 1020s
are excellent little utility tractors with all the
goodies like live closed-center hydraulics and wet
power brakes.

I think rather it was the 2010 to stay clear from? Yes, I did look at a 1020 and that is a very desirable little tractor. The one I looked at was gas and a little tired. Would not lift a round bail even though the person put on a barrel weight on back. I think it was a little tired. The 302a industrial loader is rated at 3300 lbs and 28 g/pm flow, far exceeding most standard tractors of that size.

Back to the subject matter. I did not want to open the top of the gear box as suggested . It had the linkage running across it and tractor it is outside.

So, I ground down a small flat spot up on the shift shafts themselves, in order to get a pipe wrench not to slide/slip. Using a bigger pipe wrench on the knob itself, I work them off. They were extremely tough, all the way to the end.

Knobs took a bit of a beating but still in tact. Greased the boots, slipped them on and tightened the cover back down and done!

I might mix up some epoxy and paint it over the knobs as the got a bit "roughed up" during the process.

Thanks for all the help and advise.

P.S. I did put a little WD- Lithium grease on the threads and they screwed all the way back on by hand. Used lithium grease because I had it out there on tractor. No real special reason for the use of this particular product.