John Deere 1978 2.7L 164.4 ci Diesel Injector Leaking

lanthony2020 · Oct 23, 2014

Hello, I have an injector that is leaking at the base of injector/head. Went to dealer, he provided me with a small plastic like O-ring. Purchased three as the other two injectors are damp around base as well. The front injector is leaking quite badly and running on manifold and down block.

Problem, easy enough to get at injectors, but how to pull the actual injector out of the head after you loosen and remove the bolt, unhook fuel line and return?

Anyone have experience with these. It is in my 302A.

Thank you in advance.

LN

JDemaris · Oct 23, 2014

Once you remove the little bolt (5/16" as I
recall) - the injector just pulls straight out.
Often they are stuck in the head something
awful. There's a special puller made by OTC
that grabs the two grooves cut into the
injector base to yank it out with a slide-
hammer. Without that tool it's just a matter of
prying and twisting and hoping you don't ruin
the injector. I've had a few that were stuck so
bad the head had to be pulled and then drove
the injectors out with a punch from the inside.
If you get them out - installing new seals is
not easy. It's just a teflon ring. You have to
stretch it to get it onto the injector and then
it will be loose and sloppy and not want to fit
in the hole in the head. There are special
tools to expand and compress that teflon ring.
Without the tools - it just takes a lot of
care. If it was mine - I'd buy some new
Chinese injectors for $35 each and be ready to
install them if needed. So-called "rebuilt"
pencil injectors are often not worth the bother
(in my opinion). I've yet to see a cost-
effective method to truly rebuild them.

JDemaris · Oct 23, 2014

Here's what the OTC puller looks like.

lanthony2020 · Oct 23, 2014

Thank You. The injector does turn using a screw driver place on head and the fuel T.

Checked the price of the tool, 100 bucks. What do you think about a fine wire "noose" and a pipe to pull it, or then wire to body pull hammer?

Thanks, I think I will play with it a little until totally frustrated.

The o-ring sounds like a pain. Wonder what the dealership during harvest time would charge me???

LN

JDemaris · Oct 23, 2014

When I worked in a Deere dealership shop - we
rarely used the OTC puller. A "lady-slipper" pry-
bar with a right-angle rocker-head works just as
well (sometimes). The ones we bought from Mac were
too thick and did not work well. The ones Snap On
sold worked great.

lanthony2020 · Oct 23, 2014

Thanks!

Dieseltech · Oct 24, 2014

The top seal under the banjo seals the compression, make sure the hold down springs are in good shape. If weak or broken the seal will not have enough tension to keep from leaking. The lower carbon dam seal does not hold compression, just keeps the carbon from coming up the full injector length IF the top seal holds. The carbon dam WILL fail when the compession seal leaks. Stanadyne used to repair them but stopped, just not cost effective as jdemaris said.

lanthony2020 · Oct 24, 2014

Thank You. Looks like one might just replace injectors and be done with it.

Now, China or Stanadyne? $35 or $70? Also, if the Teflon seal is on the new ones, that helps too.

A little worried after reading above about getting the injector back in with new Teflon seal? When do I know it is seated, to put pressure inward on it?

Thank you in advance.

LN

Dieseltech · Oct 24, 2014

Stanadyne injectors come complete with seals, think the china ones do too but not sure. The china injectors I've checked worked well, as to life have not heard yet. Clean the hole with a 3/8 drill, then just push the injector straight in place until it stops on the upper gasket.

lanthony2020 · Oct 24, 2014

Thank you again. Looks like I will give it a shot. The suggested rolling head pry-bar is a 20". Just wondering if others sizes would work?

THX,

LN

Dieseltech · Oct 24, 2014

I use the small roll head bar from snap on, just try to lift and turn at the same time, gently. Stay away from directly under the banjo, if that area gets deep cuts the compression seal will leak. If any get bent they will be junk too.

buickanddeere · Oct 24, 2014

Don't look for leaks with your fingers while the engine is running.
Even new injectors should have the pop pressure checked.

lanthony2020 · Oct 24, 2014

This morning the injector was even easier to turn in the port. Dealership mechanic suggested the same as all above or spray again and keep wiggling it back and forth.

I did this (wiggled) and was able to pull the injector out using my fingers. Local JD dealer used his special tool and put a new teflon washer on for free!

Thanks to all that responded.

LN

JDemaris · Oct 25, 2014

If the seal is correct, the injection will push in
by hand firmly. Make sure you coat it with some
sort of anti-sieze grease compound.

I've got Chinese injectors in one Deere (152) and
a Case 188 and a 207. Some were only $26 each and
were put in 10 years ago. Never skipped a beat.

lanthony2020 · Oct 25, 2014

Good to know, is there a particular distributor that uses better stuff than others regarding, "Chinese" injectors?

THX
LN

John Deere 1978 2.7L 164.4 ci Diesel Injector Leaking

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