1959 Ford 841-D - How Do I Access Cylinders from Injectors?

Stew Mills · Jun 9, 2014

I am working on a 1959 Ford 841-D (diesel) that has been sitting for several years and before I attempt to turnover the motor I want to lubricate the cylinders (a little marvel mystery oil in the top). I started to unscrew the 'injectors' from the right side of the motor but when I remove the female threaded part it just removes the metal fuel line and leaves a male threaded piece in the block with a teeny little hole in it where the fuel shoots in.

I do not see any flat spots on the pieces that remain in the block as if a thin flat wrench would allow me to screw them out, and am scared to manhandle them off not knowing how they are attached. Can these be removed (how?) so I can get better access to the top of the cylinder to drop some oil in?

Thanks!

Bob · Jun 9, 2014

The injectors, (key # 57) are under the valve cover and held into the cylinder head by two 5/16" bolts.

<img src = "http://cnh-b2b.servigistics.com/index.php/sbsimage/NH/default/228803.png">

Stew Mills · Jun 9, 2014

(quoted from post at 10:55:44 06/09/14) The injectors, (key # 57) are under the valve cover and held into the cylinder head by two 5/16" bolts.

<img src = "http://cnh-b2b.servigistics.com/index.php/sbsimage/NH/default/228803.png">

Thanks Bob. Perfect explanation! So it looks like I cannot remove these unless I take the valve cover off (glad I didn't tug on them). So, if I want to lubricate the top of the piston without removing the valve cover will lubricant get in there if I squirt it (marvel mystery oil) into the injector or is that a bad idea and I need to just bite the bullet and pull the valve cover off and expect to clean out a bunch of goo while I am in there and put in a new gasket as well?

I am new at tractors and diesels and a little apprehensive, but I guess there's only one way to learn?

Stew Mills · Jun 9, 2014

I got into the top end tonight and was able to see the injector bolts. For it's age, the top end looked quite clean and no build up of sludge. So far, so good!

The tank and rubber portion of the fuel line coming from the front end of the tank, however, are a different story. Tank needs a good cleaning and the rubber hose is pretty much rotted through and has to be replaced. I am not sure if I can replace just the rubber section or if I have to take to a hose specialist...not sure how those crimp deals work...or if I can patch it together with new hose and small hose clamps?

showcrop · Jun 10, 2014

My 971-D has no rubber lines, but I would have no problem using some snug fitting fuel line with a good clamp to replace old rubber.

Stew Mills · Jun 10, 2014

(quoted from post at 07:38:52 06/10/14)
My 971-D has no rubber lines, but I would have no problem using some snug fitting fuel line with a good clamp to replace old rubber.

Yeah, its strange. Where the fuel line leaves the front of the tank (not the one under the center) it is a metal fitting coming out of the little valve attached to the tank and a standard metal screw fitting and metal fuel line about 2" long that attach to the valve. THEN, there is a piece of ~5" rubber fuel line factory crimped to the metal fuel line on both ends where it runs down to the fuel pump, etc. in metal. It looks pretty legit in that the rubber hose doesn't appear to be a homemade crimp unless the previous owner had it done to fix a kink in the line.

Either way, the rubber has to be completely replaced because it's all rotten and fragile.

QUESTION: Why is there a fuel line coming from both the center of the tank as well as the front?

See photo for the two fuel lines, and if you look closely you can see the rubber portion in the upper-right in the shadow of the fuel tank.

JMOR · Jun 10, 2014

One is supply & other is 'leak back' /return.

souNdguy · Jun 10, 2014

is the engine locked up?

would you feel more comfortable removing the manifolds and looking at open valves?

Stew Mills · Jun 11, 2014

(quoted from post at 18:53:05 06/10/14) is the engine locked up?

would you feel more comfortable removing the manifolds and looking at open valves?

I don't 'think' the engine is locked up but haven't tried anything yet for fear of damaging the cylinder walls if there is trash/rust in there.

I have pulled the manifold cover and here are a couple of pics. So far looks pretty good (at least I think...but this is my first tractor overhaul). I intend to take off the head and look at the cylinders and lubricate them before I try to spin it.

QUESTION: Where is the best place to get the head and manifold gaskets for these ole beauties? Will the local box stores have them or is there a decent and reputable place to order online that you guys deal with?

souNdguy · Jun 11, 2014

that would be the valve cover you have off.. not manifold.

manifolds are the intake and exhaust.

with as good as that valvetrain looks.. i sure wouldn't be snatching the head off.. but that is me...

I honestly doubt i'd even pull the injectors or manifolds.. i'd see what it felt like with a bar on the crank. if it acted like it would move freely.. I'd let her rip... the first fast revoloution will splash lube the cyl walls anyway..

Stew Mills · Jun 11, 2014

(quoted from post at 13:25:02 06/11/14) that would be the valve cover you have off.. not manifold.

manifolds are the intake and exhaust.

with as good as that valvetrain looks.. i sure wouldn't be snatching the head off.. but that is me...

I honestly doubt i'd even pull the injectors or manifolds.. i'd see what it felt like with a bar on the crank. if it acted like it would move freely.. I'd let her rip... the first fast revoloution will splash lube the cyl walls anyway..

Thanks for the suggestions, and corrections noted. I know in my head what I am looking at and meant to say valve cover, I just get in a hurry typing and can't get the right words out sometimes :?

Should I fool with pulling the manifold at all, or just see if she spins freely and if so button her up and finish cleaning the intake (nasty), air box (nastier), tank and fuel lines and go for a crank test? I'm a believer in "if it ain't broke don't fix it."

Any suggestions on gaskets. I know the valve cover gasket has been replaced not too long ago since it's cork in decent shape...but is clearly separated in several placed and needs a new one.

Thanks! I really appreciate all of the guidance and help!

souNdguy · Jun 12, 2014

I honestly would see if it will bar over. if it will i would not pull head or manifolds, unless i actually intended to rebuild it or do other work.

Stew Mills · Jun 12, 2014

(quoted from post at 11:34:40 06/12/14) I honestly would see if it will bar over. if it will i would not pull head or manifolds, unless i actually intended to rebuild it or do other work.

Nope, not planning on doing anything I don't have to other than the obvious. I'll see if she will bar over and we'll go from there. Hopefully it will stop raining long enough where I can try this weekend.

Anything specific I should 'listen for' or 'look for' in the valves as it (if it) spins over, or just the fact that it spins in what appears to be a smooth and free manner?

Thanks!

souNdguy · Jun 12, 2014

many times i spin them over to see if all valves moves ( no bent pushrods.. etc. ).. and see if any oiling starts up top. on good units that aren't too wore out you can get oiling fast.

so much rain and wind here i have 2 sections of barn outbuilding roofing down laying on tractors.

pressure washed my 941D monday in prep for primer, and it's been wet every day...

Stew Mills · Jun 12, 2014

Gotcha. Good luck with the painting...I guess that'll be my next project if I get mine running.

As far as turning by hand, any tips on relieving the compression without having to take off injectors, etc. or is it not enough where it'll be a tough fight? I don't want to take anything off that isn't really necessary.

I understand the concept but never done it and not sure what I'm up against.

JMOR · Jun 12, 2014

If turning by hand, just do it slowly & it will leak off. Rings have a gap. Not a perfect seal.

Stew Mills · Jun 12, 2014

(quoted from post at 16:34:51 06/12/14) If turning by hand, just do it slowly & it will leak off. Rings have a gap. Not a perfect seal.

Thanks!

1959 Ford 841-D - How Do I Access Cylinders from Injectors?

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