Help with a 1959 841-D

I have a 1959 841D that was left to me and I am trying to get it running. As best I know, it has been sitting for ~3 years. Tank has diesel that of course needs draining, and I suspect I should drain the hydraulic fluid and oil as well, drain and fill the radiator, change the fuel filter, and it needs a new battery. The left rear wheel is stuck and will not roll and I suspect the brakes are rusted and I need to remove the wheel to clean it out. Also, I see the start/ignition button but where in the world is the OFF/STOP button? if I get it started I want to be able to stop it!

So...this is my first time owning a tractor and I am looking forward to breathing life into the old beauty, I just need some direction from those that are far more educated on the do's and don'ts with these projects.

Thanks in advance for any and all direction you can offer!

Stew
Auburn, AL

Your gonna have to get the brake broken loose to make anything happen. I would get it running and gently try backing up as drum brakes only work about 25 % of they're power backing up. As far as an on off switch im pretty sure it doesn't have one. A mechanical diesel doesn't need one. You turn it off with a leaver or rod running to the injection pump. Some models you use the throttle itself. Im not sure on an 841specifically but im sure someone else on here knows for sure.

Thanks jr1983. I have been online tonight and found a .pdf of the manual ***(http://www.link_disallowed/manuals/tractors/Ford%20Tractor%20Diesel%20601%20D%20and%20801%20D%20Series%20-%20Owner%27s%20Manual.pdf)*** and it does say that there is an ignition key and starter button, but that once started the ignition does NOT stop the engine, only the throttle being pushed to the OFF position will stop the engine. I don't think mine even has a key as it appears to have been hardwired/bypassed but I'll know more once I start digging into it later this week.

As far as the wheel, I first need to check the brake lock as the manual says you can lock the brakes by pushing the pedal and pulling up on the lock lever rod. I think the lock lever rods on mine are gone, but that doesn't mean the locking mechanism couldn't still be engaged. If that's not it, I'll try to tow it backwards and see if that breaks anything loose.

Here's a picture. I have since pumped up the tires and pressure washed it in preparation to start working on it.

Pics

Its bhai ot a lot of potential. If it has a key switch it should be on the left side undue the hood on the side of the steering support. Another thing incurred to me. You were going to change the hydraulic oil which im sure won't hurt anything. The oil in the bottom of the housing will be about half grease and ridiculously thick. If you have access to a magnetic block heater or it might help it all drain. I have had to pour some diesel in the hydraulic to thin it. If you do that dont start the engine with diesel in it. At any rate be ready for it to take all night to completely drain.

Should I not sweat changing the hydraulic now or is that a good thing to do to be safe? Or just focus on the oil, fuel and radiator and if it cranks then let it warm and do the hydraulic? I just don"t want to mess up anything over a simple fluid mistake. A friend said if the dip stick looks clean it might be ok, but since it has been sitting for a few years I am concerned that "junk" may be in there and just settled at the bottom. The dip stick barely has a drop of fluid on it so that"s pretty much a useless determination in my opinion.

I don"t have a block heater of any kind, but maybe I can do it on a day where it"s in the 90"s here and put a cheap electric blanket on it to add a little heat if it needs it?

Sun exposure will add a LOT more heat than today's electric blankets!

Might pull the drain plug on the hydraulic, transmission (could be one unit), and engine, see what comes out. If you get water, and probably will out of the trans, let it drain until you get oil, then put the plug back in.

Then see if it will run. Once you see it's running, and going ahead with the project, and find any other problems, and there will be...

Then worry about spending the money changing the fluids.

I would service the air cleaner before trying to crank it. They can get water in them especially where yours is missing the screen. I don't see any wires to the glow plugs so you may need some wires, relay, maybe the push button. You will need them for it to start. See if you can get a small flash light down into the fuel tank. If there is a lot of crud you can siphon it out.

Thanks to everyone for the feedback.

I think my plan of action based on feedback and research is to:
a) drain and flush out fuel tank (is 2/3 full of OLD fuel).
b) clean air cleaner.
c) drain some hydraulic and check for water/trash and if it appears clean top it off enough for a crank test.
d) probably go ahead and do a full refill on the oil just to be safe.
e) if the trans is separate from the hydraulic (I don't know yet...still learning) probably do a full refill on it just to be safe.
f) make sure the radiator is full (not rusted) and hoses are intact.

I think they bypassed (hardwired) the key switch and it only has a starter button but if it doesn't get juice to the starter when I try to start it I'll start troubleshooting the electrical.

As far as the glow plugs, I may be wrong but I don't think they are required and probably have not been on there for a long time. There may be wires crammed under the dash I haven't seen yet so that's something I need to look for. So far I read that they are only needed for starting in very cold weather and I am in central AL. However, if that's not accurate and they are required for 'cold engine' starting regardless of climate I have some shopping and rewiring to do.

[/img]

engine is a sump

trans is a sump

hyds is a sump

rear end is a sump

(quoted from post at 23:59:11 06/05/14) engine is a sump

trans is a sump

hyds is a sump

rear end is a sump

Click to expand...

So...what does that mean? What does that allow me to do or not do?

Thanks!

My post is in reference to the "E" part of your pist

(quoted from post at 05:06:15 06/06/14) My post is in reference to the "E" part of your pist

Click to expand...

So that means I have 4 different (separate) fluid compartments versus any of them being one and the same? Or does that means all the 'crud' would be settled to the bottom (the sump) and if I open the drain plug and the first little bit is relatively clean it should all be clean? Or both?

I'll be curious what the fluids look like, but will most likely do the oil and trans before attempting a start up and then the hydraulic and rear end if the engine has signs of life.