smoothing a cylinder sleeve.

danec71

New User
im hoping to save the cylindersleeves in my ad3
perkins.I got the pistons unstuck and theres some
minor rust and pitting on the sleeves.im curious
if its ok to run a cylinder hone real quick
through it and not take off to much to clean it
up.or is there a better way to do it to smooth it
out to where I can use standard size rings.thanks.
 
If it was stuck and it has pitting,the best you can hope for is a half azz job,Depends on what kind of shape the pistons are in also. Never had any luck reringing a diesel. If the cylinders are tapered and they don't have the right cross hatch in them when honed, the new rings will never seat. Will always be hard to start and use oil.All depends on the results you are hoping to get in the end.
 
Probably showing my ignorance here but I have a question.

Why would a cylinder be tapered?

Would not the end clearance on the rings be excessive at the bottom of the stroke?

Brad
 
"Why would a cylinder be tapered?"

Cylinders wear more at the top, likely from less lube and more exposure to heat/combustion products.
 
The wear or taper is at the top not the bottom,If you think they don't taper, get yourself a bore guage and run it up and down the sleeve. Some will try to tell you pistons don't wear tapered too, Mic the skirt on a new and a used one and see. When I rebuild an engine I leave nothing to guess about,I mic the lobes on the cam,replace the cam bearings, if equipped check the end gaps on the new rings and plastiguage every bearing,I have rebuit more engines than I even care to think about and I can't remember when I last had a comeback. The customer pays the first time, if it comes back it costs me and I have an unhappy customer. I don't like unhappy customers.
 
Put a new sleeve kit in it and it will last a long time. I never liked doing an engine rebuild twice. Hal
PS: Check that crankshaft for wear.
 
Believe it or not this dozer only had just over 300 hours before the old guy ruined the tracks and sprockets and it sat from there on.I measured crank shaft and connecting rods and everything is still factory specs along with the cylinders.that is why I wanted to try and save these sleeves if I could.I have the.brand new rear sprockets and the new chains I got with it to install once I get it running.its in great shape other than looking lime it sat around for 35 years or so.its a 1973 mf 200 dozer by the way and I am looking for spare parts.thanks for the replies so far.
 
(quoted from post at 15:31:46 06/01/14) Believe it or not this dozer only had just over 300 hours before the old guy ruined the tracks and sprockets and it sat from there on.I measured crank shaft and connecting rods and everything is still factory specs along with the cylinders.that is why I wanted to try and save these sleeves if I could.I have the.brand new rear sprockets and the new chains I got with it to install once I get it running.its in great shape other than looking lime it sat around for 35 years or so.its a 1973 mf 200 dozer by the way and I am looking for spare parts.thanks for the replies so far.
Take this with a grain of salt because it is commonly done on racing engines with an upper band of rust and I'm not a diesel guy.
With the "active" ingredients in many racing fuels and the thin, .043 napier 2nd groove rings we use, the upper portion of the cylinder is basically running dry and its not uncommon to see a red band of rust after only a week of inactivity in a high performance engine. The cylinder will measure OK and the piston is good, but we certainly don't want to put new rings in a rusty bore. What I learned from the drag racers that re-ring their engines at the track is take a red Scotch-Brite pad, scrubbing circumfirentially to remove the rust, then using a 320 grit ball hone (available at Goodsen) stroke the cylinder about 5-7 time with honing oil. It puts a nice cross hatch pattern for the rings to seal. Then using white absorbent towels, wipe the cylinder completely clean with WD-40 until there is no more gray color on the cloth and it is perfectly clean. Just before installing the new piston/ring assembly, wipe the cylinder wall with a mixture of 50-50 STP and engine oil. If my cylinders measure good and the pistons are not scoured, I've been doing this for the past 15 years and we have less than 3% leakdown, provided everything else in good shape.
 
Cylinders are also checked for out-of-round. Most manufacturers have specs for taper and out-of-round. We are doing a 3.4 liter GM now with max taper of .0003 and max. out-of-round of .0004.
 

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