Apologies in advance for the long winded post, but from what I’ve read of these types of topics here, the more information the better.
I have a 43 CASE VAI, 6V with Magneto Ignition, no lights or multi-position light switch, only the on/off pull knob switch. There is currently an old corroded, what appears to be 2pole VR mounted on the generator. I am by no means an electrical expert, but I have read and re-read all the threads I could find for wiring diagrams and checked and doubled-checked my wiring and all appears to be wired ok, I think, but I not seen a wiring diagram for my setup with lights or light switch.
The Ammeter never budged at all when turning the ignition on/off or running the tractor regardless of engine speed so I suspected a frozen needle inside it from decades of sitting outside. I replaced it and have it wired as shown below. With test meter, neg to neg battery terminal, I get 6.2 volts on either post of ammeter when touching positive lead of test meter to those posts, from what I’ve read that’s should be correct BTW, does it matter what terminal (left or right) this Bat wire from the VR is connected to on the ammeter, as long as it’s not the same terminal that is also connected to the Battery via the starter switch.
Since I don’t have any lights, I’m thinking I really don’t have any significant load anyhow while the tractor is running. Isn’t a magneto ignition self-supporting sort of speak? Meaning the only purpose my generator and VR are serving is to recharge the battery after using the starter. When I push the on switch in , according to the manual, that’s correct for a magneto ignition, In = On, the ammeter needle barely moves, if at all. Tractor will not run with on switch knob in the out position. I have properly polarized the generator by momentarily touching a jumper wire from the A terminal on the VR to the Bat terminal and did get a little spark when doing so, but only once. After disconnecting the battery and reconnecting a 2nd time and trying to repolarize, did not get any spark. Since I don’t have lights, I can’t turn any lights on to see of the ammeter needle moves to the discharge side.
So, when I measure voltage across the battery terminals with the tractor off or running at idle , I get about 6.19 to 6.23 volts on digital test meter, no change in movement of ammeter needle. At higher RPM’s, voltage across Battery terminals varies between 6.26 to brief peaks of 6.3+, maybe 6.4 for a split second. Needle in new ammeter is wild at higher RPMs, bouncing feverishly between 0 and 6~8 amps. Bouncing so much it bounces back into discharge side of the gauge, -2 or so.
So I’m suspecting the old corroded VR. I suppose it could be the Generator, but working my way through the least expensive items first. I received a new VR but have not connected it yet because the old VR only has 3 terminals; F, A, & Bat and the new one has F, A, Bat, & Load. Since I don’t have lights or a light switch, I have nothing to connect the Load terminal to. Can I just ignore this “L” terminal on the new VR and go ahead with the other connections or should I exchange it?
If the new VR doesn’t work, I’ll bring the generator to a generator rebuilding shop and have them check it out.
Hoping if I can get this sorted out here, this thread may be beneficial to others in the future with a similar set up.
Thanks
I have a 43 CASE VAI, 6V with Magneto Ignition, no lights or multi-position light switch, only the on/off pull knob switch. There is currently an old corroded, what appears to be 2pole VR mounted on the generator. I am by no means an electrical expert, but I have read and re-read all the threads I could find for wiring diagrams and checked and doubled-checked my wiring and all appears to be wired ok, I think, but I not seen a wiring diagram for my setup with lights or light switch.
The Ammeter never budged at all when turning the ignition on/off or running the tractor regardless of engine speed so I suspected a frozen needle inside it from decades of sitting outside. I replaced it and have it wired as shown below. With test meter, neg to neg battery terminal, I get 6.2 volts on either post of ammeter when touching positive lead of test meter to those posts, from what I’ve read that’s should be correct BTW, does it matter what terminal (left or right) this Bat wire from the VR is connected to on the ammeter, as long as it’s not the same terminal that is also connected to the Battery via the starter switch.
Since I don’t have any lights, I’m thinking I really don’t have any significant load anyhow while the tractor is running. Isn’t a magneto ignition self-supporting sort of speak? Meaning the only purpose my generator and VR are serving is to recharge the battery after using the starter. When I push the on switch in , according to the manual, that’s correct for a magneto ignition, In = On, the ammeter needle barely moves, if at all. Tractor will not run with on switch knob in the out position. I have properly polarized the generator by momentarily touching a jumper wire from the A terminal on the VR to the Bat terminal and did get a little spark when doing so, but only once. After disconnecting the battery and reconnecting a 2nd time and trying to repolarize, did not get any spark. Since I don’t have lights, I can’t turn any lights on to see of the ammeter needle moves to the discharge side.
So, when I measure voltage across the battery terminals with the tractor off or running at idle , I get about 6.19 to 6.23 volts on digital test meter, no change in movement of ammeter needle. At higher RPM’s, voltage across Battery terminals varies between 6.26 to brief peaks of 6.3+, maybe 6.4 for a split second. Needle in new ammeter is wild at higher RPMs, bouncing feverishly between 0 and 6~8 amps. Bouncing so much it bounces back into discharge side of the gauge, -2 or so.
So I’m suspecting the old corroded VR. I suppose it could be the Generator, but working my way through the least expensive items first. I received a new VR but have not connected it yet because the old VR only has 3 terminals; F, A, & Bat and the new one has F, A, Bat, & Load. Since I don’t have lights or a light switch, I have nothing to connect the Load terminal to. Can I just ignore this “L” terminal on the new VR and go ahead with the other connections or should I exchange it?
If the new VR doesn’t work, I’ll bring the generator to a generator rebuilding shop and have them check it out.
Hoping if I can get this sorted out here, this thread may be beneficial to others in the future with a similar set up.
Thanks