Need advice on how to get a 9N started

Luke A

New User
As part of a new home purchase I became the proud owner of what I believe to be a 9N 1940 Ford tractor. The previous owner said that it ran, but I cannot get it to stay running. It turns over and tries to start, but never gets going, it runs for about 5 seconds. I have put in new plugs, replaced the gas, checked gas flow and rebuilt the carb. It has been converted to a 12 V system. Any ideas on what to do next. I am a novice on this.

Thanks
 
If you have the means, a compression test might
give some answers. You'll need a minimum of about
80 lbs to get it running. If the engine is
healthy, it will improve as it runs. If you find
some cylinders with no compression it may have
stuck valves from sitting. If it has compression,
give each cylinder a shot of oil. That will help
bring the compression up if the rings are dry.

Might take a look at the spark. Check the spark at
each plug wire, at the plug end. It should be able
to jump 1/4 inch. If the spark is weak or
intermittent, the points could be burned or
corroded from sitting. Is the distributor in
front? If so, remove it to service it. It comes
off easily and will only go back one way, can't
get it out of time. Since it's been converted to
12v, there should be a resistor in the wire to the
coil. If not, the points will be short lived. Look
things over in there carefully, be sure everything
is assembled properly, not complicated, just has
to be right to run right!

Hope this helps.
 
Hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor while a helper makes an attempt to start the engine. Should have good suction. Poor suction means low intake manifold vacuum. Do a compression check. Hal
 
Check to see if you have spark at the plugs. Ground a plug on the chassis, hook a plug wire to it and look for spark. It should be blue and jump a 1/4 inch gap. Post on the 9n,2n,8n forum for more feedback.
 
if it has good spark.. check this:

will it run, but stalls when you let off the thumb button?

if so, power to the coil is wired from the starter side of the start switch

or

can you keep it running by spraying start fluid or gas from a squirt bottle into the carb mouth?

if so.. then the fuel system needs more attention.

post back.
 
Great information, thank you. I know that the hot wire goes directly from the terminal block to the coil, I am guessing that the points maybe the problem. Ideas on type of resistor I should install?

I will do more troubleshooting tonight and give you some feedback.
 
Checked spark on two of the plugs. Spark on both was weak and did not spark on very turn. I am guessing the points are bad. This tractor has side mount distributor, are the points the same as a front mount. I cannot find a serial number on the tractor I am guessing it is a 9 n.
Thoughts?
 
This is probably an 8N with the side distributor.

Since it has the side distributor, the coil may
have already been changed. Look it over and see if
there is a number or voltage indicated on it. If
it's a 6v, a 1.8 ohm ignition ballast resistor
should work. If it has a 12v coil, it's probably
ok without a resistor, still check for numbers and
try to find out if the coil has an internal
resistor.

Also check the polarity of the coil. Assuming it
now has an alternator, the system will now be
negative ground. The + terminal will be connected
to the ignition switch, the - terminal will go to
the distributor.

The points are different for a side distributor.
They are available on this site, at Tractor
Supply, or a real auto supply can order them.

While you're in there, feel for side play in the
distributor shaft. If the shaft and bushings are
worn, the points won't stay set. Also see if the
centrifugal weights are free and will spring back
when released.

For now though, you just want to hear it run. If
it proves to be a useful tractor, might look into
electronic conversion, new cap, rotor and wires
later.
 

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