Proofmeter/timing/carb settings

So, just got done with a rebuild on side mount '52 8N, did the break in running. Some questions around timing, carb settings, and governor speed. I think I've read everything on the internet, understand the gist, but foggy on some stuff.

First off, idle speed was at 1200. I couldn't get it any slower. Backed the idle speed out until the screw fell out! I then went to the speed setting on governor (as max RPM was way above 2400) and tightened that down until it was all the way down. Still was way high on RPM's at full throttle.

Then proofmeter stopped working. It now has about half an hour on it, as it was brand new. Its getting power. It quit and came back then quit again. I'll check the cable next, but its still tightly secured at both ends.

I guess my question is, think the proofmeter was wrong with the RPM's to begin with?

If not, should I start messing with linkages, or replace governor?

I set timing at idle, not knowing it was 1200 RPM. Should I assume it still idles at that and reset timing to manual suggestion for that RPM level.

Could I have done something wrong with carb (did not rebuild it)? Have main mix set at 1.5 turns our, idel mix at 1 turn out (although doesn't sound like it would matter at 1200 RPM).

She seems to run well. Only odd thing is that there isn't much reaction to the throttle movement on the low end (was thinking due to idle being high). It did seem to get better when I backed out the idle screw, and idle did come down some.

The only other thing of note, not sure it matters, is I did melt the wire that goes from the coil to distrib, which then grounded out on the manifold. Was fine once I replaced that.

So, for those of you with nothing better to do this weekend, I'd love to hear your suggested troubleshooting steps!

Thanks again as always,
Matt

proofmerter getting power? it's mechanical. closest thing it has to power is a lil wire for the ilumination lamp.

next.

idle needle on a ms carb is an air needle. out to lean.. in to enrich... main needle is fuel.. out to enrich.. in to lean.

there is a set screw onthe backside of the linkage to set low idle .. check idle around 400 rpms

as for the dead proofmeter. i have heard of bad ones dieing quick.. ( cheaper ones. / chinese made mostly these days )

Sounds like there are some governor/linkage problems.

The throttle plate should be linked directly to the governor arm. The governor arm is connected to the speed selector (the hand lever on the dash) with a spring.

Move the speed selector to fast, the spring pulls harder on the governor, the engine speeds up until the governor weights overcome the spring and regulate the speed. Move the speed selector to idle, the spring tension is reduced, and the governor returns the throttle plate to idle.

So, at idle, engine running, the governor will be pushing the throttle plate closed. Make sure the linkage between the governor arm and the throttle plate is adjusted so the governor CAN push the throttle closed.

IF the throttle is being pushed fully closed, and the RPM is still high, there may be a vacuum leak or a problem with the throttle plate (bent, improperly installed, missing/broken screw, worn shaft) or the linkage plate may be loose and turning on the throttle shaft.

Next, with the engine off, push the speed control lever to full fast. The throttle plate should now be pulled to wide open by the spring. You should be able to pull it closed by hand, this will require moderate pressure, and should be a smooth transition from open to closed, then return to full open when released.

Now, with the speed control still in the fast position, watch the governor linkage and start the engine. You should see the governor quickly move from the wide open position to a partially closed position, which should bring the RPM to around 2400.

If this doesn't happen, as in the throttle remains in the wide open position, there is something wrong internally with the governor, or the linkage is still adjusted wrong.

About the proofmeter, take the cable off the back, turn the cable socket (the part the cable turns) with your fingers. It should turn effortlessly and smoothly, and the RPM needle should respond as the socket is turned.

With the cable still connected to the engine, start the engine, watch the cable. It should turn smooth and steady. Try to lightly grasp it with your fingers. This will "load test" the cable, you should not be able to stop it. If it stops or turns intermittently, the cable may have a bad end crimp, or the driver gear is striped/worn out.

Note: If the proofmeter will not turn, or has locked up, that will have caused damage to the cable or the drive gear.

Steve & Soundguy

Thanks for the replies!

Proofmeter - could spin it by hand, kinda (fat fingers I guess, need to find something to stick in there that's easier to grip) and the needle slightly moved. Cable spun while tractor was running. I'll have to fiddle with this some more. Almost wondering if the cable is perhaps too short and falls out of the groove or something. I assume the inner cable normally comes out of the bigger cable? I pulled that out and saw no kinks, seems fine I suppose. More to come. And power, lol, I'm dumb!

Steve, per your comment, 'start engine with speed at full, & watch linkages move', I did this a couple times and saw nothing move. So, started with speed selector at fastest setting, watched for movement around gov linkages, saw nothing. Thoughts as to what this could be? Could this explain high idle speeds (still not sure that proofmeter is right either, so that could be it). Time to rebuild the gov?

Also, another thing I failed to mention. When checking fuel flow by draining the carb, two streams shot out of the bottom. Is this normal, or is there something lodged in there? I probably need to rebuild or at least clean the carb at some point too.

I mowed for about four hours yesterday, ran fine all day (slight sputter/skip or whatever at slower RPM, seemed to go away at higher speed, I plan on checking point gaps, etc, and stuff mentioned above). Based on what I've posted in here, think she's fine to work for a while before I start rebuilding/cleaning stuff again, or am I at risk of screwing something up? She's been down for so long, I'm trying to get some stuff done around here.


Thanks again!