FORD 801 6v-12v conversion

I bought a FORD 801 that has been converted to 12v. Im not an expert with the wiring on it but I can definitely tell something is not right. Can anyone give me explanations on what wire goes where and from what? (there are no lights hooked up which makes it easier). I think the wires may not be hooked up right ie. positive/negative coil wires etc. Also I have a voltmeter I want to replace the old am meter with. Thank you guys so much!

you left out some very important key pieces of info... and sound slike someone has done some changing around.

1, 01 series didn't use ammeters.. they had charge lamps.. if yours has an ammeter.. it was installed by a prev owner.. or the tin is a swap.. or it's an 00 not an 01

2, how is the 12v setup? genny or alternator.. 01 diesel models came 12v from the factory using a genny.

if you have a 12v alternator setup and it is a gasser.. check the battery. it is likely negative ground., MANY times people use common 1 or 3 wire GM 10SI alternators for these conversions.

post details on what you have and I can tell you how to wire it.

Here is some info to start you.

1, get a napa ic14sb ( 17$ ) coil, no resistors needed.

if the unit is neg ground.. thent he - on the coil to the distribuitor.

if yuo want a volt meter, put neg of voltmeter to chassis, and positive on the line ging to the key switch.. assuming neg ground.

if you are still using the push button thumb starter switch on the trans. it has a wire going to 1 small post on the start relay. other small post goes to that same wire off the key going to coil and your volt meter.

charge wire from alt can basically go right to battery or hot side of start relay if you have no ammeter and are not using a charge inticator lamp... wire from there to feed key switch.

1 wire alts.. are just that. 1 wire.

3 wire version has the charge wire as described, plus a lil short jumper from #2 spade lug on alt to the charge stud.. plus a wire from the #1 spade lug on the alt wired hru a 194 lamp to the coil side of the key switch ( same side as coil, volt meter and line to starter relay small post 1 side ).

get creatve onthe lamp.. some trailer marker lamps have a plastic holder nad 1-2 wires. find one that works. wire it inline from key switched on to alt #1.. insulate it so it does not short out and bulb burning does not melt anything.

key on, tractor not running, lamp will light up, start tractor get over 400 rpm and lamp should go out... basically 'idiot lamp' type setup...

if you add lamps.. put in a lamp switch with fuse. pick up power same place key switch does ( hot side of start relay.. battery hot.. etc.. ).. and then wire to lamp switch, from there to each lamp.. I like to run good chassis grounds for my lamps and not rely on mounting bolts to old rusty tin.


ps.. you may have some jinky non standard key and start relay setup from a auto with a turn to start.. or a relay heeding hot to start vs ground to start like the oem. wire accordingly.

mind you the neutral safety start system is much safer and reccomended. my advice just mentions the alternate method to get you running.. etc..