Couldn't quite find this answer anywhere...
When installing the rear rope seals (heck maybe
even the front ones too), how flush should the
rope be with the body of the oil seal retainer?
I'm not asking about how much excess to leave
sticking up at the ends, but in body of the 'U'
should the rope be flush with the metal, or should
it stick up some?
I tried installing the rope seals (first time,
might not be a shocker) and ended up with the rope
sticking up 1/16" of an inch all around the body.
Probably about the same or less at the tips of the
rope too. It made the crank too tight. I had
thought that was normal and it would loosen up,
but the starter wouldn't turn the flywheel once
attached.
I used the dry method, per John Korschot's helpful
paper. After going back and opening up, I pulled
the crank up slightly, squirted some oil on the
rope, then let it sit overnight. It may have
gotten a little better but was still pretty tough
to turn. I then pulled out the rope retainer from
the block and crank spun relatively easily (still
somewhat tight, but I attribute that to new
pistons/sleeves/etc). I don't have a torque
reading, because of course the deep well 1-5/16"
socket I ordered ended up being too small (doh).
But, have another on order and hope to be able to
get a specific torque value at some point. To
that point, other than John's paper, I haven't
seen any info on what the torque required would be
to spin the crank once connected to all new
pistons &/or all new pistons+rope seals installed.
Ideally I can test and be confident prior to
resealing the block. I've seen things posted that
state anything from so tight you need to pull it
with another tractor to break in to so loose you
can spin it with two fingers.
I did plastigauge all main caps & all rod bearings
and everything looked good.
Long story I know, recap - should rope stick up
past side body of rope seal retainer (upper rear,
or all for that matter) & any info on torque
required to spin the crank.
Oh yeah, 1951 Ford 8N.
When installing the rear rope seals (heck maybe
even the front ones too), how flush should the
rope be with the body of the oil seal retainer?
I'm not asking about how much excess to leave
sticking up at the ends, but in body of the 'U'
should the rope be flush with the metal, or should
it stick up some?
I tried installing the rope seals (first time,
might not be a shocker) and ended up with the rope
sticking up 1/16" of an inch all around the body.
Probably about the same or less at the tips of the
rope too. It made the crank too tight. I had
thought that was normal and it would loosen up,
but the starter wouldn't turn the flywheel once
attached.
I used the dry method, per John Korschot's helpful
paper. After going back and opening up, I pulled
the crank up slightly, squirted some oil on the
rope, then let it sit overnight. It may have
gotten a little better but was still pretty tough
to turn. I then pulled out the rope retainer from
the block and crank spun relatively easily (still
somewhat tight, but I attribute that to new
pistons/sleeves/etc). I don't have a torque
reading, because of course the deep well 1-5/16"
socket I ordered ended up being too small (doh).
But, have another on order and hope to be able to
get a specific torque value at some point. To
that point, other than John's paper, I haven't
seen any info on what the torque required would be
to spin the crank once connected to all new
pistons &/or all new pistons+rope seals installed.
Ideally I can test and be confident prior to
resealing the block. I've seen things posted that
state anything from so tight you need to pull it
with another tractor to break in to so loose you
can spin it with two fingers.
I did plastigauge all main caps & all rod bearings
and everything looked good.
Long story I know, recap - should rope stick up
past side body of rope seal retainer (upper rear,
or all for that matter) & any info on torque
required to spin the crank.
Oh yeah, 1951 Ford 8N.