Ford 8N Cylinder Sleeve Removal

mcewan79

Member
Looking for advice (obviously).

I"m working on the 8N engine (more as a learning project) and am down to cylinder sleeve removal. I have a "puck" that can be used to drive them in/out. My question is, how hard should I tap on the puck with the ol hammer before I go out an buy a press or just send to the machine shop. I"d like the experience of DIY, but don"t really feel like cracking the block. I"ve given her some taps but haven"t hit too hard, maybe I"m being too cautious. From everything I"ve read, they"re 090 sleeves, although the bottoms look more like 040, perhaps from wear, but they certainly have the fat lip at the top like 090.

So, I suppose the question is, should I -
Man up and whack them harder with a hammer (how hard)?
Go get a press and press them out?
Make the two-hour round trip to machine shop?


Thanks y"all!
 
I used a welder and run a bead in the sleeve. It will shrink enough to pull the sleeve out with your hand.
 
It's simple enough to build a puller out of scrap. Here's one I made.
a153094.jpg
 
just make sure it is not the thinwall steel sleeves vs the thick cast iron sleeves.

don't want to be welding them into the bore!
 
Thanks y'all.

I like the home made puller. I ended up just putting on my big boy pants and tapping a little harder with the old hammer, everything worked out well.

(from everything I've read, I'm sure welding would do the trick, but I figured my first time welding probably shouldn't be on a cylinder sleeve!

Thanks!
 
Years ago one of our teachers at Vo-tech mentioned that happening if a person wasn't careful.
 
I remember in my youth back in the early 1950's watching my dad and a neighbor removing THIN wall sleeves from a Ford 8N by driving a flat bladed screwdriver between the sleeve and the cast block which shrunk the sleeve somewhat and they just came right out. First time I can remember what the inside of an engine looked like. Seemed simple enough to me I have never forgotten that. The sleeves they were removing were thin wall steel sleeves I'm sure and not the usual heavy ones I am familiar with on the Farmall engines which will in fact require a puller and the correct puck. Hope this might be of some help but I've never been inside a Ford 8N myself, Hal.
 
Another tip from a non-Ford 8N guy, when you get ready to install the new sleeves if you put them in the freezer and cool them down they will shrink up and about fall in place, Hal.
 
I pull the sleeves while the block is still in the tractor. Not always easy to get around the crank but works pretty slick. I use a floor jack on the puck, a pice of inch and a half steel pipe down past the crank, and start jacking. After a heart attack inducing initial pop they slide out nice and even.
 
10-4 on the welder method - i have ruined good blocks trying to pull the sleeves-- the rust can ball up and get tighter as you go -- the weld will shrink the sleeve and save the block --3 to 4 welds up sleeve will do the trick -- you dont have to burn through just lay a half assed bead -- good luck --- Roy
 
Just wanted to follow-up and thank everyone for the replies, it is appreciated!

I opted not to make my debut as a welder on these old sleeves, figured not too smart. I ended up 'manning up' and whacking the tool a little harder, which worked. Once I saw them budge I knew I was in business. Certainly were tight.

And for the installation of the sleeves, I tried the freezer method plus heat lamp on engine. Let heat lamp warm for about an hour per 2 cylinders. Had paper towels around sleeve to keep cold (both inside and out). It shrunk enough so that I could get maybe half an inch or so of the sleeve into the cylinder, then just pounded the rest of the way with a board followed by the puck tool. Certainly didn't shrink enough to just drop them in like I've seen others say, but worked well as a starting point for tapping them in.

Thanks again everyone
 

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