1952 tea 20 ferguson ,hydraulic control valve Question

rodeo123456 · Mar 12, 2014

Hi
I wonder if someone could help me , 3 point hitch was not working and got it narrowed down to the hydraulic control valve .I was wondering if anyone has ever changed one ? and if so .. does the pump have to come out it all cases? or are some model changeable from the large drain plug in the bottom ...?
It would be tight working in there but I think its possible?The plunger (that's what I call it ) that goes internally into the pump section is broke ,its the piece that is connected to the T and has a rod that runs in and out to lower and raise the 3 point hitch))

souNdguy · Mar 12, 2014

pull side cover.. remove control forks from T valve.

pull pto shaft.

drop pump

R&R as needed.

repalce pump

replace pto shaft.

spread and attach control fork onto T valve.

Jason S. · Mar 12, 2014

I changed mine with the pump still in the tractor. Get a short 11/16" wrench and remove the relief valve and you can get to the valve much easier. I always reach up thru the large drain plug hole to pry the legs of the control fork apart to remove and install the T part of the control valve.

rodeo123456 · Mar 12, 2014

(quoted from post at 07:28:11 03/12/14) pull side cover.. remove control forks from T valve.

pull pto shaft.

drop pump

R&R as needed.

repalce pump

replace pto shaft.

spread and attach control fork onto T valve.

do I need anything special should I have to pull the pto. a puller of some sort or should it pull out easier.

rodeo123456 · Mar 12, 2014

im hoping I can do the same .. seems like a much easier job ...
the plunger shaft would be about How Long? The rod or plunger is still in the pump , as far as I know unless it came out and is in the oil bucket.. it broke off about an inch from the T ,that connects to the fork. Most of the plunger is still in the pump but I think I can get it out
Its been so cold here that that is as far as I got as I am working outside ,,(no garage)
thanks u guys for the info...

souNdguy · Mar 13, 2014

ther eis NO QUESTION about whether you will or won't have to pull the pto. it runs THRU the center of the hyd pump.

pump can't drop with pto in place!!!

If all is well, 99% of the time you just pull the 4 bolts out of the pto bearing carrier flange and yank it out after draining oil.

Keep in mind the gasket may have glued it in place. i reccomend taking a ball peen hammer and hitting the flange edge ( use a drift if needed ), so that the flange rotates a bit.. that breaks the gasket / glue and usually lets it come out. A screwdriver thru the pto stub end hole gives you something to tug on. can tap on that too.

most of the time they slide right out.

if you have been living wrong or are unlucky.. then at some point in time the pto shaft may have hit something that did not move ( mower hit rock..e tc.. )..and the rear end of the pto shaft, which is splined.. well.. the splines can twist, and prevent you from pulling the pto shaft out easilly ( have to tape it out if you are lucky ). or it will only move a couple inches then stop solidly. menaing you have to get inthere and cut it out!

don't worry till that happens...

rodeo123456 · Mar 13, 2014

Ok .thanks for the info , its appreciated but I do have to say that u do have me worried lol...I bought the old tractor to brush Hog or (flail Mower) a field and it was to big for the tractor .. it got the job done but I did hit some things lol so may be burred some ..Live and learn ....
Its not like I need it real bad until spring if it ever comes .
Thanks again......
Where do u find parts?

souNdguy · Mar 13, 2014

some fergy parts here. not sure if yt carries the control valve or not.. worth a look. if yt does not carry it i'd look at agco dealers.. or just search it online. might find a used one even.

rodeo123456 · Mar 15, 2014

(quoted from post at 13:12:37 03/13/14) some fergy parts here. not sure if yt carries the control valve or not.. worth a look. if yt does not carry it i'd look at agco dealers.. or just search it online. might find a used one even.

Hi
thanks a lot for your help, I ended up dropping the pump like u said , much easier to work on and ill check the relief valve while I have it out .. also much easier to get the dirt and crap out of rear etc.
I ll get some new gaskets and I should be good .. One parting question if u don't mind...the t piece that connects to the forks have a bit of a bend up on both ends where they connect to the forks, but the new t is straight ,the old one had a number 4 stamped on it and the new one had a number 6..
Just wondering if there might have been to different ones for different models? It looks like a manufactured bend and they are identical in every other way.

Jason S. · Mar 15, 2014

The T should be straight.

Jason S. · Mar 15, 2014

I forgot to add that there really isn't a way to check the relief
valve. No more than it costs just replace it.

rodeo123456 · Mar 15, 2014

(quoted from post at 11:59:45 03/15/14) I forgot to add that there really isn't a way to check the relief
valve. No more than it costs just replace it.

yea your right for the costs better to change ...
One more last question lol ...
Whats your opinion on spark plug wires? Ones with wire on the inside or the carbon ones or does it matter?

Jason S. · Mar 15, 2014

Copper core wires are the only way to go. Copper core wires, non resistor spark plugs, and a quality distributor cap,rotor,and points

1952 tea 20 ferguson ,hydraulic control valve Question

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