Repairing a transmission line vs drilling through a casting

will-max dairy · Mar 5, 2014

I'm servicing the transmission on an oliver 1755.

There is a little pin on the over-under (aka hydraul shift) linkage that moves the control spool. It's gone.

I have to install a new one. The right method is to remove the arm that holds the pin so that I can get it out in the open and pound a new pin (either an expanded dowel or roll pin) into it.

To do that, I have to remove a transmission fluid cooling line with a 3/4" flare nut fitting. The one that's there has pipewrench bite marks on it; and it's not moving. I even tried (gently) with a small pipe wrench of my own. If I just lay on the pipe wrench and ruin the flare nut to get off the line, how do I economically repair the line?

Alternative? Well...I could drill maybe a 3/8" hole in the side rail of the tractor so that I could put a 1/4" punch through the hole to pound the pin into the arm where it is.

Which alternative is best?

Anonymous-0 · Mar 5, 2014

That's really your call...

If there is no danger in drilling the side rail, I might be in favor of that, especially if this is a recurring problem.

Repairing the line, as in replacing the flare nut would only be possible if it's long enough to cut off and reflare.

glennster · Mar 5, 2014

i would try a heat gun and a butterfly wrench. just enough to warm the fitting without heating too hot because of the oil in the lines. any tool truck will have the butterfly wrenches. heres a pic

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will-max dairy · Mar 5, 2014

That's butterfly socket is interesting; because I have to do a tie-rod on my car in the near future as well. Another job, another excuse to buy a new tool.

As for reflaring the line, it's a metal line that runs the length of the engine. There's no slack that I could use to cut, stretch and re-flare. I was looking around to see if I could possibly get a short length of tubing with a new flare nut and some kind of compression coupler (sort of like what they used to use on soft copper water lines).

My peeve with that is that I dislike compression couplers. Seems that they aren't reliable.

Getting a whole new line would be quite a task.

Drilling through 3/4" of cast iron isn't easy either, though.

glennster · Mar 5, 2014

my first choice would also not to try and section the line. if the fitting is going to come off at all, the butterfly will get it off with none or minimal damage so you can re-use the nut. worse case would be changing the line to a flexible hydraulic line.

Jo Bird · Mar 6, 2014

If I'm not to late, here is a trick that may help. Take a piece of wire than will fit inside of the roll pin and about two times it's length. Bend it so it is about one and one half the length of the pin. Insert it in to the control spool and shift linkage to line them up and rest the pin on the one half of the wire sticking out. Now take a large pair of channel lock pliers and press the pin in place, a small C clamp also works if not quite enough room for the pliers. Of course once the pin starts through the shift linkage the wire will need to be removed. Your mileage may vary with this method, but thought I'd through it out their.

will-max dairy · Mar 6, 2014

Not too late. It's been well below zero here at night and not much above all week. I'm not going to try anything until this weekend. In the meantime, I've been putting a dose of liquid wrench on the fittings every day. I should have a piece of wire around that would do the trick as far as holding a roll pin; but there isn't much room to get a tool onto it to press it in any way; and the engine side rail prevents me from getting a punch straight on the end of it so that I can drive it with a hammer.

retired farmer · Mar 6, 2014

Can you replace it with a small machine screw and a nut?

Bob · Mar 6, 2014

Oh, good lord, don't start drilling holes... listen to Glennster.. heat it up a couple of times, let it cool to ambient, and hold a heavy hammer or block of metal against one flat, and tap on the opposite flat (within reason, don't deform it).

Repeat, if necessary, along with loosen juice.

It will come loose enough to turn off by hand.

I was shown another trick, some years ago, by a long time DEERE wench... not so elegant, but it WORKS.

DEERE uses a LOT of steel hyd lines, and it's COMMON for the nuts to stick to the line.

He simply wet 'em down with loosen juice, and put the tip of a blunt punch in an air hammer against 'em, catching one of the six "points" of the hex and rattled away at a lot setting 'til the nut turns.

I've tried it a couple of times and it DOES work!

will-max dairy · Mar 7, 2014

I thought about the screw and nut fix. I've avoided it so far for a couple of reasons:

-The arm is very close to the spool. I've felt with my fingers; and I can't feel enough space for a nut.

-The screw would have to be a clearance fit through the hole; this means that it starts out maybe a little smaller than the original expanded dowel. The screw would also be softer around the edges of its circumference; because the threads remove maybe half of the material.

Because the pin rides in a notch in the bottom of the spool (not a hole in the center); I would be concerned that a screw's threads would wear. Then the screw would start to pop out of the spool here and there.

That's how the tractor was behaving last summer when the original pin started to wear. It would catch in the notch and shift most of the time. Then it would slip out once in a while; and you'd have to move the lever back and forth a time or two in order to catch the spool again.

If I do this, I want to put in something hard and solid all of the way to the edges, like a roll pin or dowel.

(quoted from post at 03:25:53 03/07/14) Can you replace it with a small machine screw and a nut?

Repairing a transmission line vs drilling through a casting

will-max dairy

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retired farmer

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