D4 7U starter engine clutch

John Lowe

New User
I need some help on how to remove the starter engine clutch. Looks like from the parts Manuel there is four bolts holding it in. Can I remove the four bolts and pull it out or is there some "trick" I should be aware of. SN 7U18266
 
You need to lift the starting engine 3", engage the starter cluch lever, remove the injection pump governor cover,remove the starter cluch end cover for pulling the starter engine cluch
 

Thanks since I posted the first question It was suggested that I could remove the governor and not move the motor. I am finding it difficult to remove the complete agovernor It may be easier to do what you reqcommend. any more thoughts.
 
You can't pull out the starter engine cluch with out lift the starting engine and do't remove the complet governor and you will have to drain the antifreese from big motor before lift the starting engine
 
the drive gear from the pony engine will keep it from coming out --so the pony has to be lifted to get that gear up
 
actually what is the exact problem you are having?
Adjustment of the clutch so it stays engaged? Or problems with the pinion gear/engagement/premature disengagement?
 

Thanks for the question --Last fall I started the D4 up with no problems let it run a while to mix the antifreeze before winter--a couple of weeks ago I tried to start it - poney motor runs good--pinino lever will not come up--to engage clutch--just hits something hard that dosent let it come up--assumed the clutch had to be removed to determine problem--thanks for any hints you might have will take advice given and raise the motor and leave the governor alone--
 
Ok--there is two levers--one to engage pinion and one to engage clutch
the clutch lever should be disengaged (toward rear of machine) to engage the pinion gear to the ring gear. If the teeth are misaligned it will not engage. If the pinion bendix or engaging shaft is rusted it may not move.
On the bell housing on the left side just above the left brake pedal by the firewall is a little plate that can be removed to inspect the end of the pinion gear and shaft--you should be able to jiggle it around with a long scredriver
 
I just uncovered the small plate you made reference Will remove it in AM almost have the starting motor ready to raise if necessary will post results thank so much for your help as you can see I dont do this everyday
 
East side Oregon Our weather is such that ice is not a problem see above post hopefully tomorrow will be productive thanks for your thoughts
 
Working thru the hole described above the "bendix" rotates but will not move to ward the front The pinion stricker is about 1 inch away-- makes contact but will not move the bendix -- asumme I need to continue to remove the clutch..
 
sounds like the bendix/pinion assembly is frozen on the shaft coming out of the clutch assembly---you may try soaking for a couple of days with pb blaster or equal--i have heard of guys using a long pin and lightly tapping the pinion assembly in to get loose
 
there was no oil on the bendix is that normal or should it be in oil could be it was nOt lubercated properly what are your thoughts even if he was freedup should I go ahead and pull it out to give it a good inspection
 
The pinion assembly is not in an oil environment--that's why they tend to rust up sometimes--if you can get it loose and working and shoot a little oil on it i would leave it and not pull the pony until last resort. The gasket can be horrible to keep in place and not leak under the pony!
 
Help I have followed all the advice I could find. Removed the governor cover, removed the plate on the starter clutch housing, took all the bolts out of the clutch housing, Finally got the pinion bendix moving and locked in place. I like about 1/8 of an inch being able to clear the governor housing to remove the clutch. Any other advice- or will I have to remove the governor. JOHN
 
Shouldn't have to remove the governor---just lots of twisting and contorting to get the assembly out
if the pinion is in the latched position it makes the whole assembly shorter and easier to get out.
 
I have spent all day trying to find the right combination to remove had my neighbor over to help just cant get it out pinion is latched. Is there any special tricks on removal of governor radiator is drained I have the bolts out but seemes to be a spring which want let it come off
 
well if you have the pony raised so the gears clear and governor cover and clutch cover off, it should twist out---but some guys have removed the governor--I believe it can only be installed one way so the timing doesn't get messed up.
 
it seems from all my discussion that I probably should leave the governor alone. Cant find any good direction on how to actually remove it. Diesel macanics who make house calls in our area are to find. If anyone has some additional thoughts I would appreciate them. John Lowe
 
One more question --The bendix is now engage and I want to put everything back together--never did get the starter clutch/pinion all the way out -I need to
find a way to release the bendix--I assume that would need to be done before putting motor back down and trying to start it with the pinion already engaged????--This seems like there should be a simple solution but I have no tool that will reach the rear of the two latches to release them--any suggestions will be appreciated--John
 
if the starter pinion is fully installed back to its final position you can release the Bendix thru the small plate hole in the bell housing by using a long screwdriver or drift pin by pushing on one of the latch pin pivots.
I have started my D4 pony many times with the pinion gear engaged to eliminate the grinding mesh of the gears--just have the clutch handle all the way to the rear to eliminate much of the drag
as Gemdozer said changing the clutch fluid to ATF helps reduce drag
 
thanks for your reply--I will try thr screw driver bit and if that does not work easy I will start putting it back to gether--you have been very helpful John
 
good luck on that!--like i said I have started my D2 and D4 many times with the pinion engaged
also you could tow the d4 with the pinion and clutch engaged and the diesel spinning will release the latches
 

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