Building a SHTA

Dave Frieden

New User
So to start with I have a 53SH that came from an old neighbor by way of my tractor collecting father. Years ago neighbors had an unfortunate accident with it involving a hill 2 trees get the scenario. When they fixed it they got hold of a 44 H rear end and you now have a tractor that is pretty much not worth much. So I am wanting to build a SHTA. But what I want is someone who has actually done it to tell me what it takes to do it.
 
Need to know what you want to end up with. User tractor or one that looks like a late SH with live hydraulics? Does the 53 model have the battery box located under the seat now and live hydraulics? Or is it the earlier type SH? If no live hydraulic, do you want to end up with hydraulics? Save some explaining if the above is answered.
If you are up to modifying shift forks the SH transmission cover can be used on a Farmall 300 or 350 to retain bolting on of the steering parts and the rear fuel tank support. You also need to use a 300, 350 flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, also need a starter. Everything in front of clutch housing from the SH will work. SH front fuel tank and steering support and air cleaner used. Some control linkage, starter and wiring needs made to work unless from a late SH. Battery location desired and if the use of a non late SH hydraulic reservoir and fuel tank is going to be used apply to some of the first questions.
 
I just got finished doing this. It's not too hard but don't be fooled, it's not just a matter of bolting the SH sheet metal onto a 300 or 350 rear end. On mine I used a 300 from the bellhousing back so I would have the independent pto, but you have to use the frame rails from the SH because the 300 rails are longer. The biggest issue with this combo is that the 300 does not have a place to bolt the steering post of the SH so I welded mine where you can barely see it, I also cut the shifter off so it is the same as the SH because the SH shifter won't fit into the 300 top cover. If you have more questions just email me and I'll help as much as I can. Good luck!
 
What I have is a series II 53 SH that was in a wreck years ago it involved 2 trees a big hill. Anyhow when they quote fixed it they stuck a 44 H rear end under it. So effectively it"s not a real valuable tractor to a collector. I want a usable fuel efficient tractor to pull a small square baler and accumulator[ live hyd.,pto and torque] I have a 350 rear end but it"s pretty sad needs disassembled cleaned up new bearings rebuilt torque. So I am reassessing the whole project because until you no one has answered me as to exactly what I need to do this.
 
If you have a series 2 its not hard. The SH and 350 center housing is the same length so all the controls, wiring, starter and linkages work. You need to do a little work to mount the SH hydraulic reservoir to the 350 center housing. Reason for using the 350 clutch and pressure plate is because of the IPTO drive and different clutch shaft splines. Flywheels have the starter gear a little different distance from the face of the crankshaft so a 300 or 350 one is best. If you use the 350 transmission top cover, a mounting of the steering post and the rear fuel tank support needs to be made or done as you prefer. Gear shifter will need shortened and probably bent to suit you.
If putting the SH transmission cover on the 350 Weld a little piece removed from one of the others on the 2nd and 3rd shift fork after cutting at the shifter notch. Shorten the rear of other 2 shift forks and cut new shifter notches in all three. Use the SH shift forks and the neutral position half moon notches lined up with the same position notches of the 350 forks to figure out where to put the shifter notches. Since the 350 shift forks and gears move farther to shift than the SH, only go by the neutral position half moon notches distance to shift slots. If making the new shift slots yourself its sometimes better to not cut the full width until mounting them on the top. If you are a little off on the slots after a trial fit. With shift forks in neutral you will notice when looking down the shifter hole if there a little off and can tell the direction to finish them.
350 transmission housings have 1/2 inch bolts through the rear of the transmission cover so if you use the SH cover those holes need drilled bigger. Early 300 transmission housings with a R1 ending on the casting number has all 7/16 bolts like a SH.
 
After further study of the 350 rear end and doing a little research. We found a 300 rear end and all other parts you said I might need for I believe a very fair price at Alderson tractor parts at Sigourney,Iowa. The 350 rear ends only attraction was it had the larger axle option to accommodate a corn picker. I had traded for this rear end on a straight across deal my misplaced H for the 350. The 300 route will save a lot of time and effort. I am however going to save axles and torque core and various parts if they are decent enough to be salvageable. I think I will stick with the 300 lid. I feel I will be better suited to come up with a decent way to mount everything. if I had more time I would like to do the lid project but I don"t have time nor the lid or needless to say a bottomless check book. Anyhow so far you"ve been a great help and I thank you. Our plan is to build it now use it and tweak everything over the summer and do paint and decals next winter. Hopefully that will be in my own man cave to be built this summer.
 
Good luck, maybe didn't explain good enough that the only difference you will be able to see between a 300 and 350 transmission housings unless its some holes above the PTO is on very early 300 housings. When IH started making 300 utility tractors the same transmission housing was used in 300 farmalls and the rear top cover bolt size was increased to the same as a 350. Big axles and housings will fit both transmission housings. Depends on what size cast wheels you want to use.
One more thing the 300 and 350 use some different clutch and T/A clutch operating parts. just don't mix those parts.
 

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