VH4D Zenith carb

Hi all,
Here is what I have , a used carb I found on ebay, cleaned it up put a new jet in it all seems good. It started but the spitting is worse then ever can"t ramp up the RPM"s at all now? I went with a paper gasket in the middle and a cork up top for the intake, the cork is simply material from the craft store since it never gets near the gas I thought it would work? Did I screw up doing this? To recap when I had the other carb on it would spit 50 percent of the time and well it just sounded like crap, all this time and money into the loader I want it right. But like I said now it"s spitting a lot, could it be from the cork intake gasket? Should I do a paper gasket there? I had a paper one that got destroyed and it was a lot thicker then the paper sheet I have, could I double up? The spitting has to end, I feel confident the timing is right and the flange appears to be flat not warped, why is this thing spitting so much? You would think it"s a carb issue because my old carb that was rebuilt worked but spit a little now this carb made things worse. Should I buy a new carb and start over? I also played around with the idle screw and it didn"t do anything, any help would be appreciated

First, find out for sure you don't have any vacuum leaks.

With it idled down, spray around the carb flange and intake gasket with Berrymans or equivalent, it must be the flammable type, listen for the engine speed to change, as in speed up or smooth out.

You say the idle mixture screw does nothing. That is an indication the idle circuit is cloged inside the carb. This circuit also contributed to the off idle circuit, the little hole in the side of the bore beside the idle port, right where the throttle plate meets the bore. Reexamine this circuit carefully, spray cleaner through it, look where it flows, or doesn't flow.

Also recheck the float level, low level will lean the mixture. Be sure you have adequate flow of fuel to the carb.

If this truly is a lean backfire, you should be able to play with the choke and find some solution to it. Though not a fix, it will verify if this is a fuel problem or something else. Even though these are simple carbs, I've had some totally defeat me. The end result was buy a new one. That may be how the one you have got on Ebay, who knows?

Ignition problems, like worn distributor bushings, bad cap & rotor, wires, points (I hate points!)plugs, can contribute.

Valves can be a cause. Lash too tight, flat cam lobe, broken/weak spring, loose valve seat.

Think of all the possibilities... The backfire may only be a symptom of something else.

Good luck!

Steve, thanks for the advice . I just started it and did as you said I sprayed starter fluid around the flange the intake flange and it kinda smoothed out maybe a little but most defiantly started climbing in RPM"s , like I stated before I got a sheet of cork and made my own gasket and it seems to leak per that test so now what? Thing is I think the paper gasket is too thin am I over thinking this?

One more thing I just remembered without going into too much detail , the shop that rebuilt the motor for me was the worst and I remember picking the motor up without it being done and the guy had the motor hanging from the exhaust manifold I wonder if that could be something to look at as well? I attached a picture of what I have. Scott

Starting fluid isn't the best choice, it vaporizes too quickly and could have been floating around to the inlet of the carb. Get some carb cleaner with a long tube so you can direct the spray to the specific area you are leak testing.

I don't see a problem with a cork gasket. What it's made of isn't as important as that it is sealed and fits properly, as in not restricting the flow.

If you're in doubt of the quality of work done, then don't trust anything. Re check the valve lash, intake gaskets, etc.

Will do, thanks Steve.

Where is the shrouding ?
All of that pretty yellow paint on the fins will
burn off when you start it up, and, in fact,
restricts cooling somewhat. I sandblast the
cooling fins, and leave them bare.

Reading these posts a couple of things come to mind, I would check the valve clearance, if an intake is too tight it will fire through the carb. Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks, like intake and carb, I'm pretty sure that carb has a fixed jet, if your running that crappy gas we have today the jet needs to be drilled out 3 to 5 thousands so it doesn't run lean. Also make sure the point gap is set right and a sick coil will also make them run like that, good luck.

Might want to stick a vacuum gauge on it and see what it tells you.

I can see your working on a wisconsin engine. What I would like to ask does all the wisconsin engine that are a VH4D that where put in a I.H. skid steer loader model 3200 A sieres have no fuel pump or do they have a fuel pump. If they have a fuel pump how would I get one for this engine. Thanks Brent

Brent,

I really cant speak for a 3200A mine is a 3200B however, they seem to be very similar. Mine has a fuel pump I found on ebay. 45.00 your skid loader looks great!

I am restoreing a basket case machine. I put the gas tank in and put the carburator on. Then I looked at it I started to realise that maybe there might be a fuel pump for this engine. I would not know because I do not have a parts book for this project. I am going to have to sreach ebay for the part number for that fuel pump.This is my first skid steer loader I took on as a take apart machine and I get to put the puzzle back together again. Thank you for your help Brent.

Well you will find all the help you need on this site for sure , the guys on here really helped me. If you give me an email address I can send you a manual for the 3200 A and b series it tells you everything you need to know. I won"t be able to send it until tomorrow morning it"s on my office computer.

Correction Brent, what I have is the Wisconsin VH4D manual I can send you, it covers everything. I do have a shop manual and owners manual but only for a 3200B not A I also found them on ebay 20 bucks or something.

Hey Scott thanks about the manuel but I have three differnt types over here and I going nuts. I was just wondering about the fuel line and if it gravity feed how does it keep flowing if the tank is the same leval as the carburator. I saw you had a fuel pump on yours and it got me thinking if I needed one on mine? A fuel pump makes sense for the skid steer loader. I have a operators Manual, Payline divison of I.H. service manual and the I.H. Blue Ribbon service (3200 series A loader tractor book). My email addres is [email protected] please make subject I.H. Skid steer loader. Thanks again Brent

Just saw your response , I will send you a mother load of info on Monday morning via email.

Scott