piston pin bushings

I got an engine rebuild kit for a Perkins A4.318 diesel and replaced the piston pin bushings. I had to hone out > 0.040" to get proper clearance on the pins. Do these bushings contain 2 different metals (brass and steel)? It looked like it had a brass lining and because I had to bore it out so much, the brass lining seemed to disappear.
Do I have a problem or can I go with what I got?

I'm not a diesel mechanic, but I don't like the looks of this!

What you have are steel backed bronze lined bushings. The steel backing gives them the extreme load rating needed for this application. What you've done is machined away all the bronze and now have steel on steel, which will gall and seize.

Obviously the wrong bushings were supplied. You can probably go back to the supplier and get the right bushings which will only need a few thousandths reamed out.

This is not an area to short cut, diesels are very unforgiving beasts!

Was it genuine Perkins parts or aftermarket?

Thanks. They are aftermarket parts. I got 4 made by Tisco (p/n 50128) that came with the engine rebuild kit. You would think that these would be right since the kit came with the pistons and pins.
After I installed one and saw how much I had to take out, I got curious and I ordered a replacement from YT made by A&I (p/n A-0050128). It seemed to fit a little better, but still had to take out 0.030" and the bronze has to be pretty thin.
I went ahead and installed the 3 I had left from Tisco.
Since I got the right part number from 2 different manufacturers, I am a little lost on where to go next.

Take a look at a REAL engine parts catalog (Federal Mogul, for example) and see if there are alternate part numbers by engine age or serial #. Or consult a Perkins dealer? They are now owned by CAT, I've never tried there for parts, though.

From what I saw the aftermarket ones are $15.00. You can get genuine ones from Agco part number 731463M1 for $16.44.

Thanks Jason- I also answered you on the Massey forum.
I will call the dealer tomorrow and order them.
It's a shame that you pay a lot of money for a rebuild kit and have to buy replacement parts for your replacement parts.
Believe it or not, they also gave me the wrong rod bearings too! I got p/n 736878M91 with the rebuild kit and the upper and lower tabs weren't offset like they should have been. Had to reorder the same part number and got the right parts.
Once I get the engine finished I will get on the phone with Tisco and see if there is any way to get a partial refund. Something tells me there will be more parts screwed up.

As a rule of thumb I try to avoid Tisco parts if possible. I've had all kinds of problems thru the years trying to use their parts and finally I gave up. I haven't had much luck with A&I parts either to be honest. When it comes to a Perkins diesel if you can, use parts from Agco or Perkins especially the gaskets and seals. There is all kinds of threads on the Massey board where people have used aftermarket rear main seals on their Perkins and they started leaking very shortly afterwards whereas the genuine Perkins seals didn't give any problems. I am like most of us on here and have to do things on a budget, sometimes I am suprised by the price of Agco parts verses the aftermarket I the fact that there is very little difference in price between the two but a whole lot of difference in the quality. Sometime in the next year I may rebuild the 236 engine in my MF 175 and put a new clutch in it. More than likely most of the engine parts will come from Agco and the clutch will definitely come from Agco. Learned a lesson on using aftermarket and rebuilt clutches years ago on a MF 165. The original clutch was replaced around 1985 or so. The original clutch had around 7,000 hard hours on it. The local dealer installed a rebuilt one in it and it lasted 6 months. They took the tractor back and installed a Massey clutch in it and that is the clutch that is still in the tractor today.

You should NEVER have to take more than a few thousandths out of a wrist pin bushing. The pins need a very close fit, usually around .0002 tight to .0005 loose, and must be parallel to the lower end bore. I recommend taking them to a good engine shop for fitting. I once reamed a set for a 2-cyl Wisconsin in a Bridgeport mill. When I took the jug to a rebuilder for boring he checked the piston/rod and they were out of line. He put new bushings in and honed them properly.

You should immediately take the parts to a machine shop and have them take care of this.

Number one issue is that bushings are bored on a jig to keep them straight, and round. Honing will make them out of round and not aligned.

Second issue is that you should never bore through the brass.

They get honed out not machined out. There is tons of force on those little bushings when the fuel is ignited. If I remember right back in school 35 yrs ago they told us that, in a diesel engine with a bore of 4-1/2" there is 6 tons of force applied to the top of the piston when the fuel ignites.

Thanks- After trying with a brake cylinder hone and ruining one, I did take them to to a machine shop for proper sizing. The remaining 3 Tisco bushings needed > 040' to fit the wrist pin. The A&I did a little better needing about 0.30" to fit.
I got AGCO parts ordered to see if they are any better.
Hopefully I will get them Monday- I will post to let you know if they do any better.