farmall A - head problems

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have my grandfathers a that has some issues I need help with.
1 - I cant seem to kepp a head gasket on it. I had the valves ground and replaced the head gasket. it lasted for a year or so then I noticed antifreeze leakage on the Vavle rod side. So I removed the head cleaned it up and had a mechanic check it with a straight edge and feeler gauge. The engine and head appeared ok so I replaced the gasket with a new one using gasket sealer. Well, this one didn't last long before it started leaking again. Only a few hours of run time. I checked the head bolts and they needed tightening. This did not resolve the leak so I had another mechanic replace the gasket. This time it didn;t last long at at - he brought it back and I immediately notice the leak. I checked the head bolts and they needed tightening. I retorqued them to 65 ftlbs and when I was replacing the rokcer arm. I broke the center stud whic has an oil cavity in it. which is my second problem.

I need a new studd for the center bolts of the rocker arm and any advice on where to get one would be great. Also any advice on the head bolt problem. I have a neigbor who has been working on these old tractors for a long time rebuilding them etc. suggested retorquing to 85 lbs and see what happens. what do you guys think

Can someone out there point me in the right direction??? or give me some advice?

I'm not a mechanic and so far two have failed to resolve the issue. I realize the need to be retorqued after some run time but I'm thinking maybe there is another issue causing the problem.
 
There was a change by IH on the head gasket torque later on the A's and C's to 80 lbs if I remember right. The change came about when the head gasket composition changed. When I rebuilt my Super A I used a Fel Pro head gasket and it said plainly on the package "sealer required". I sprayed my gasket with copper coat, and torqued it in steps to 80lbs. I cranked it up and let it get warm and shut it off and retorqued the head again. Mine has no leaks a year later.
 
Agree on the higher torque value for the head.

Center rocker stud was part # 24537DA, now is part # 355373R1, dang near $25.00 at your friendly FIAT/CIH dealer.

GOOGLE "IH 24537DA" or "IH 355373R1" and you will see a variety of places to possibly buy them from other than the local dealer.
 
Thanks guys.
I'll search for that part and redo the head at 80lbs. With sealer.

the instructions on the gasket I had said to use sealer too. But it didn't last I suspect due to the new gasket material and new torque specs.

If I have to pull the head to remove the broken stud what are some thoughts on using the same gasket?
 
I would like to offer a suggestion that you pull the studs and to use a grade 8 bolt and torque to 80 pounds.In my case the theads on the studs were not in good shape and would not hold the torque and I could not find any new studs so insted of coming frome the bottom up I switched to the bolts and heated the head and then re torqued it and have not had a head leak in three years. Bob
 
do it all again - and make sure everything's done right to avoid the problem again.

First, pull the head and check the block Very carfully for cracks.

Also check how far the cylinder sleeves project above the deck - can't remember the spec, but somebody will have it. That's an important one to avoid the problem you're having - don't ignore it.

have somebody else check the head for flatness. I'd even consider resurfacing it just to be sure it's good.

Then reinstall with a good (new) gasket.

Been a while - but I don't THINK those studs go into the water jacket on that engine... if they DO the threads need to be sealed.

Torque IN THE PROPER ORDER in 5lb increments up to 80ft lbs.

Run for a couple hours and retorque to 80.

You should be fine.
 
Did you re-torque the head after warming it up??? That is a has to and if you do not then yep will do as your has done. I have a BA which is half B and Half A and I used a used head gasket on it and aluminum paint as a sealer and it has been just fine now for 3 years.
 
Space does not permit a full lesson on using a torque wrench, They require the threads to be clean and lubricated and the reading should be taken while the stud us still tightening. I knew some people who did poorer work after getting a totqie wrench because they used them improperly.
When your A was built there were many good shops that did not have a torque qrench but many were overhauled without one. They must be used correctly to insure correct reading.
 
I remember the part you broke being a bolt not a stud.You should be able to make a new bolt on a drill press.The bolt being hollow is weak.I would have the head milled.Retorque after the engine has been warmed up, dont do it later.
 

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