cleaning gas tank

What is the best way to clean a dirty/rusty tank?

The best way is probably taking it to a radiator shop and have it boiled out. Next would be a steam cleaning. Or maybe a martic (sp) acid rinse. My self I just use them and make sure the sediment bowl has the correct screen and I dump the bowl often

if its small enough strap it to a raised axle and tire and add in some water,sand and sharp small stones--rotate it for a few hours and check on cleanliness of insides.

I have had luck depending on size, I have had lots of luck with lots of steel ball bearings about 1/4 in size and a paint shaker, or you can shake it by hand. Also fill it up with a bunch of white vinegar, let it soak and work before shaking.
Mike

I have some tractors that have sand and scale in the tanks. Used to be a problem keeping the tank outlet from getting clogged. These are John Deere and I didn't want to take the tanks off.
My solution was to build a filter screen and I have never had one clog up again. Photo.

If the tank is diesel I would start with diesel tank cleaning solution. If gas I would just wash it out with muratic acid, force dry and then coat the inside with Red Kote fuel tank liner.

Missed a step. After washing out with muratic acid thoroughly rinse the tank with water and then force dry.

(quoted from post at 06:23:44 03/10/13) Missed a step. After washing out with muratic acid thoroughly rinse the tank with water and then force dry.

Click to expand...

I rinse the tank twice with a little acetone after rinsing with water. The acetone absorbs water.

Put a 2 foot piece of log chain in it and shake the he!! out of it. That will knock the rust out of it. Then rinse it well.

I cleaned one on my 29 Essex just the way Stephen said. Make sure you do it outside the fumes will knock you over. Make sure it's really dry before You put the RedKote in it.

Dentured alcohol would work better than acetone. I just used a heat gun on mine.

you should make them,and sell em!

We used old .50 caliber musket balls for cleaning the tank on our farmall 400 and it worked well.

Raised one side with a floor jack, put the cruise control on low and let it turn for 4 hours.

A few lbs of stainless or ceramic tumbling media with lacquer thinner or if a thin film of kerosene isn't a problem it can be used. Lacquer thinner (denatured alchohol) dries without a residue and absorbs any H20.

Have tried small pea gravel, but if it isn't washed first, it leaves a film of mud inside the tank.

Would not recommend water because it leaves a flash of red rust even though the main rust scale and flakes can be loosed up an removed.

You can get those standpipe screens for your sediment bowl at Steiner tractor parts.

ha -

I like that one -

(quoted from post at 23:56:14 03/13/13) Raised one side with a floor jack, put the cruise control on low and let it turn for 4 hours.

Click to expand...

Nice, I would have never thought of that.
Mike

I have straped my tanks to a cemment mixer with pieces of roller chain and let it run,Al

Ok Oliver662011 schuck the tank, what make chassi you got in background for a latemodel? dirt or asphalt?

Sorry mean Forty40.....

I'm still a racer, not a true tractor guy, and the car is a GRT 360 Late Model dirt track stock car. My oldest son does all the driving now. I just build engines, scrape mud, and throw tires around at the track.

Have a JD A restoration project that has brought a temptation to build a puller, we'll see, right now we're still racing.

Went to the Harrisburg Farm Show Complex yesterday to see what antique pullers are all about. Not convinced on the idea of a 3.5 mph speed limit but not sure I want to spend the $$$ for a no holds barred class. I have read or heard some tractor engines cost $20K but compared to unlimited late model racing that is actually quite reasonable. New all aluminum dry sump engines are in the $40K category. Cast iron 360 late model flat tappet engines are right at $20K [u:b159147dee]+[/u:b159147dee]. I was kind of surprised roll cages and helmets weren't required for a tractor going down a dirt track at what appears to be 30+ mph. Just by the sound the cam overlap gave engines at idle and the roar when pulling, some of the 4 and 6 cylinders must be in the 5,000 rpm neighborhood. All very interesting but it's still not a SBC at 8,100 sliding into turn 3 on a 1/2 mile dirt track at 105 mph. Then again, the tractor guys aren't pounding out tin and buying new suspension parts during the week.