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Restoration & Repair Tips Board

Make my own tie rod sleeve?

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Author  [Modern View]

09-19-2012 18:49:39

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Just replaced a spindle on Case 440 and the new key groove was machined in off a few degrees so I have a wheel now kicked out a few inches. This 440 has hydraulic steering and two equal length tie rod sleeves. I removed the clamp on the tie rod sleeve and opened up the gap slightly with a hammer and chisel, wd-40, and the propane torch. I can't get it to budge pounding on it or using big pipe wrenches in case there are threads I don't see. I took it completely off and heated it up real good with a bigger propane torch and tried again with no movement whatsoever. As I am without a welder at the moment, I plan to have the local shop weld it back together after I take out the inch of length which I guesstimated will get me close for weekend mowing. I would like to be able to adjust for toe though at some point in the future. Anyone know if I can find a universal tie rod sleeve so I can put in new threaded ends to get fine adjustment? I already called O'reilly Auto parts and they said they didn't have a universal kit. The shortest sleeve I can figure I could use is a 19" sleeve so that at least an inch of each tie rod end is threaded into the sleeve as I need a hole to hole length of 22 1/8th and the tie rod threaded ends are 3 1/8th from end to center.

If I need more than one inch of tie rod end threaded into the sleeve, somebody please tell me. Also, do I want any toe out when I align the front end in the drive? Wide front axle already has plenty of degrees of positive camber on each side and if I remember right, a fraction of an inch of toe makes cars track good and enter corners good. How much toe for a tractor using the tape measure or long 2x4 method? I have new tires up front so I want to make an effort to get it lined up good.

Thanks for any suggestions to get me going for the weekend and later with dialing in a better alignment.

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10-02-2012 06:34:39

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 Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? in reply to CentralIL, 09-19-2012 18:49:39  
Proper toe-in will make it much easier to keep the tractor going in a straight line. Makes no difference if it is on dirt or pavement.

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09-21-2012 11:31:15

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 Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? in reply to 68Case440, 09-19-2012 18:49:39  
Doubt if a propane torch will ever get it hot enough to do any good. If you can't get the tie rod red hot and glowing, you'll never accomplish much.

I'm also wondering why the keyway slot in the new spindle isn't in the same location as on the old spindle?

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60 acre hillside

09-21-2012 04:50:40

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 Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? in reply to 68Case440, 09-19-2012 18:49:39  
You mentioned "toe out" what you want is "toe in" meaning that measured from the front the wheels "toe in" from an eighth to a quarter of an inch.

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09-20-2012 08:07:13

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 Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? in reply to 68Case440, 09-19-2012 18:49:39  
Usual toe in is about 1/8 inch, measured half way up the rim.

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rusty j 14

10-01-2012 19:29:55

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 Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? in reply to JMS/.MN, 09-20-2012 08:07:13  
Does "Toe-in" matter that much when used on dirt? Also, could you weld a couple of nuts on the end of the tie rod sleeve, in place of the original threads? Keeping the threads aligned, so you can screw the tie rod end in or out? And, using a lock nut, or two together?

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10-02-2012 08:30:40

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 Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? in reply to rusty j 14, 10-01-2012 19:29:55  
Sorry to all that I didn"t get back right away. To answer one question, the new spindle key slot was only a few degrees off and well within an adjustment range (assuming of course your tierods will budge). Who knows why the new machined part wasn't milled the same. Maybe it was and my spindle I replaced was actually the different one from a decade or two ago. I think probably the jig that holds the part in position for milling was probably within acceptable tolerances for a part that requires adjustment anyway. Also different was the machined cone diameter at the top of the spindle, that accepts the steering arm, requiring me to get some big washers to take up 1/4 " of new up/down play. I just placed those at the bottom of the vertical axle tube and left the very thin washers at the top as they fit around the key with a groove cut in them. So obviously, this new spindle doesn't just bolt in exact.

I cut an inch out of the frozen tierod and had a neighbor weld it up so I could finish mowing. My job of eyeing the length turned out pretty good because the alignment looked good enough for a few days on grass (actually it looks deceivingly good as the both front and rear tires are new and crisp still with seam lines down the middle of the rears so you can sight it out better than with old tires). I will check it out by physically measuring when I take it onto the concrete drive soon.

The welded on ball joints are nearing the end of their life so I shot some wd40 into them to give them a few more hours with this temporary setup. The original tie rod sleeve didn"t have threads, but I plan to now get a rod and have the neighbor weld two nuts on (I guess one will need to be the opposite thread) and find some new ball joints to replace the ones with no grease and to get adjustment back. Auto parts stores can"t find me what I want. I need to find 19" or 20" adjusting sleeve so if anyone knows where I can buy one from a supplier without making one please let me know.

Hey, I finished mowing the pasture before the rain and that is what my goal was. My eyeball alignment job had the steering feeling the same so I was happy.

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36 coupe

10-16-2012 05:32:19

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 Re: Make my own tie rod sleeve? in reply to 68case440, 10-02-2012 08:30:40  
Lose the WD 40 its the highest priced and poorest penetrant made.The shelf always has lots of Wd40 on it and the PB blaster is usually sold out.

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