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Restoration & Repair Tips Board

Re: IH utility 300 motor stuck??

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Stevewatr

03-31-2012 15:43:12
68.239.8.49



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Well the head is off at the machine shop, awaiting it's turn in the jet cleaner, and bake oven. I oredered new intake valves, all new springs, and new guides. Decided to pull the pistons to better inspect them, and ran into a few snags.

First, I have been assuming thus tractor is a 300 utility, and thought it had a C169 motor. turns out it is a C175 motor. It is stamped right onto the block. So then I questioned if it might not be a 350 utility, then I found info that suggests they may have used C175 in the 300 near the end of the run. I had already ordered the valves, guides, and springs before realixing my error. :oops:Was mad at first, but then found the C169 and 175 share the same head:D

Problem now is to figure out exactly what piston/cylinder this motor uses. I found on the IH site they list only one number for the C175, but when crossing to a Clevite/Mahle number, they list 2 differant ones based on serial #.

The tops of the pistons I have are the "firecrater" style, but I think the differance might be in the wrist pin diameter.

Went to pull the oil pan, and get this, it won't clear the large support arm that comes from the front axle towards the rear.:censored:

Do I actually have to remove the front axle assembly to get the oil pan off:confused:

Here is another weird thing. What I can see for serial numbers does not coincide with what the online parts manual says I should be seeing.

The manual states all 300u engine serial numbers start with 9501 with a c169 prefix, and 350u engine numbers start with a 501, and a c175 prefix. My engine serial number appears to be 3615?2, the ? looks like either a 5 or a 6. This number is stamped into the block in a flat area just above where it is embossed C-175. Also below where the firing order is embossed, there are numbers seperated by little screw heads *3*17*0*.

The tractor serial # on a tag on the clutch housing is also not making much sense to me.
The parts manual says the chassis serial numbers for both the 300 and 350 should start with 501, but mine appears to be 18267, then a long space followed by a letter R. The suffix codes in the manual say the R would designate a tractor with Torque amplifier attachment, and if mine has a TA, great, but why is it missing the lever?

I'll post part 5 of the video soon.

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El Toro

04-01-2012 08:30:13
108.3.225.57



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 Re: IH utility 300 motor stuck?? in reply to Stevewatr, 03-31-2012 15:43:12  
You should pull the engine and have the crankshaft measured for wear. Would be a good time have new cam bearings installed. They won't grind the crankshaft undersize unless it needs it. If it's worn slightly and needs .002" undersize bearings they will just polish the shaft. Buy your new bearings from them. Hal



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Stevewatr

04-01-2012 18:06:56
72.72.120.133



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 Re: IH utility 300 motor stuck?? in reply to El Toro, 04-01-2012 08:30:13  
Well Hal, pulled the pan today, removed the rod cap for cylinder #2, and the journal is scored! So now I am looking at pullling the crank, meaning pulling the block, so I'm on my way to a full rebuild of this motor, on a tractor that I know has a steering gear issue, and I've never seen run..........I think I need my head examined!



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El Toro

04-02-2012 12:29:56
108.3.225.57



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 Re: IH utility 300 motor stuck?? in reply to Stevewatr, 04-01-2012 18:06:56  
Sometimes it's better to let them go for scrap.
When you need tires and a complete engine rebuild
I would think twice before buying one stuck. I did alright in 1975 when I bought a Farmall A that was stuck. I gave $100.00 for the tractor and moldboard plow. It needed tires, rims, steering wheel, seat, wiring and a complete engine rebuild. Hal



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Stevewatr

04-02-2012 12:48:05
68.239.18.47



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 Re: IH utility 300 motor stuck?? in reply to El Toro, 04-02-2012 12:29:56  
You may be right about that, but I own it now, and am finding some very reasonable prices on the engine parts (so far). I already have new valve guides, and intake valves ordered, and I? can get a set of 4 sleeve assemblies with new pistons/rings and not get beaten up too bad. I gave $400 for the tractor, with a loader, a drawbar to fit the fast hitch, 2 arms that slide in the fast hitch to convert to arms like on a 3 point. Also came with a pretty new looking top link, and extra loader valve, and an unidentified box scraper. The upper arms on the box are bent, but I might be able to straighten them in my shop press.

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