Electrical help

godfreysm

New User
I have converted my 1941 9N from 6 volt to 12 volt. In the process I decided to install a key start instead of the old button start. This has caused some variation in wiring. Has anyone out there done this? Do I need to put a starter relay in? Do I still need to place a bulb in the line to the ignition? I did start it but the stater keeps running and then it won't shut off by turning the key back. If anyone knows how I should wire this please let me know. Human error in this case.

thanks for any help,

Shawn
 
Hey, I AM NOT a Ford man but if you want to replace a big push down mechanical start switch (If thats what the big push start switch is on those Fords???) with some sort of key switch YES OF COURSE YOU NEED AN ELECTRICAL STARTER SOLENOID/MAGNETIC SWITCH...... The key in the START position then energizes the low energy activation coil (like its S terminal to ground) in a typical solenoid/magnetic switch which closes a conatct between its big input (from battery) and big output (to starter) studs...

The key switch would need to be an Off/////ON////////START type with momentary and spring return out of the START i.e. have to hold it in START for the solenoid to close n crank the starter,,,,,,,When in ON it sends hot voltage to the coil and/or ballast then coil.....

As fas as the coil, a 6 votl coil will require a series voltage dropping (12 to 6) ballast resistor wired after the ignition switch and before and ahead of the coils input....

Im not familair with the round can coils then some dern Fords use so Bob and others can advise you much better then myself if that imediately above isnt workable..

John T
 

John T, thanks for the help. I installed a starter relay and it will start fine. The initial time I started the tractor, it worked fine but then several starts later, the starter wouldn't shut off. Did the sylnoid short out? It won't disengage the starter now.

Shawn
 
Wellllllll if youre tellin me theres still voltage getting to the starter when the key IS NOT in the Start/cranking position (ifffffff THAT WHAT YOU REALLY HAVE, I CANT SAY FOR SURE SO NO WARRANTY) there must still be (A) Voltage getting to the starter solenoids small S activation terminal or (B) the solenoids relay contatcs are stuck closed. Put a test lamp on the solenoids small S activation terminal n see if its hot?????? The solenoid may be bad or theres a switch or wiring or other short causing the problem.. Maybe the starter drive is stuck into the flywheel and its the engine spinning the starter ,,,,,,,,Maybe the mechanical centrifugal bendix is stuck and NOT coming back???

Is the flywheel turning the starter or are you saying the starter motor is sitting there spinning
but NOT engagging the flywheel or what???

HOWEVER dont put too much in this since Im not there Theres different starters some with the engagement which depends upon magnetism pulling them in and others have a mechanical centrifugal bendix engagements and ive seen in real cold weatehr with high curretns that a solenoid will stick in...THE ABOVE IS ONLYYYYYYYY RELEVANT IF YOU HAVE A FORD OR SIMILAR TYPE TRUE SOLENOID

If there I could help much easier but Im not sure whats happening or what solenoid or starter syatem it is sorryyyyyyy

John T
 
no such thing as a true 12v coil for a 9n/2n. there are 2.5 ohm coils marketed as 12v coils.. but you still need the oem ballast resistor with them.

good luck on the key start.. hope we don't read about you in the obit's after running yourself ( or another family member.. perhaps child? ) over since you opted to bypass the SAFETY interlocked starting system.

soundguy
 

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