Jd89

New User
Hi guys I'm new here! I've been pulling my dads jd a in the 4500lb and 5500lb class for years. Now I want to build my own. Was thinking a jd b but figured it's a little small. Now I'm thinking either a farmall h or m. I would like to pull in like the 4000lb to 5500lb range. Where I pull I'd be in farm stock. But they don't have dynos there to test your tractor. I want to build a really strong competitive puller. Any tip? guys to contact? Suggestion? Any information is helpful! Thanks in advance
 

You will get a lot more bang for your buck with the Farmall than a Deere. Ms rarely pull in 4000 here but often in 4500.
 
Olly 88 with a 310-most bang for the $$$$---Tee
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We have some stock M's in our club and in farm stock and they can't get down to 4,000-5,000 lbs. This is one of our pullers and if he
takes weights off he can't get that light 4,000 to 4,500. My stock WD45 with no weights weighs 4,000lbs. and a 45 has steel rear wheel
centers.
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your wd 45 looks as good as the 450 . do you take both to a pull ? our club has two sleds and one on each sled is a little too much for this old guy . our 770 pulls 4500 , 5000 , and 5500 on the small sled and the farmall 450 pulls 7000 , 8000 and 9000 on the big sled . with only 3100 pounds of weight . usually this proves to be too much .
 
I haven't got a truck big enough to take both of them at the same time.The two tractors and trailer would gross out at about 18,000 lbs.. I have been looking for a heavier truck like a farm truck with dump or a med. duty single axle semi tractor that would handle the weight.Right now I take the 45 to shows and pulls that are a long way from home and the 450 to stuff close to home..
 
I'am 70 years old and have several back surgeries and that's why I use 25lb.bar bell weights and pull 4500-5,000lb.--5,000-5,500 and 5,500-6,000lb. farm stock with the WD45 and load the 450 to 8,000lbs. and pull in the classes that I don't take any weight off of it.I have the 450 balanced so front wheels may come about 4" off ground at the end of a pull.
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I Like the truck! That's about what I need to pull my trailer. The only thing it would set a lot because it would only be used in the summer for pulls and shows.
 
(quoted from post at 14:15:29 08/17/17) your wd 45 looks as good as the 450 . do you take both to a pull ? our club has two sleds and one on each sled is a little too much for this old guy . our 770 pulls 4500 , 5000 , and 5500 on the small sled and the farmall 450 pulls 7000 , 8000 and 9000 on the big sled . with only 3100 pounds of weight . usually this proves to be too much .

I totaled up one time that I shifted 7,600 lbs in one day of pulling. And that was all from ground up and back down to ground. At the time I was 65 yrs. old. I bring two tractors on my 22,400 gooseneck behind my F350 SRW. within about 150 lbs of max legal load.
 
I have a M that you can start at 45 and go up near St Louis area 400 plus cubes $10000 if interested.
 
Let me go out on a "limb" here and suggest a Minneapolis Moline "U". At 283 ci stock, it will be one of the larger engines in that size tractor. With all the cast components, it will weigh 5500-6000#. It is not hard to get them below 5000.pressed steel wheels, delete pto and belt pulley, etc... using factory parts, consistent with an M&W chart, you can go 336 ci plus nearing 90hp. AND:that is legal factory overbore or power block overbore. I always say it is cheaper and easier to get more "stock" horsepower out of a Moline than any other brand. That should be consistent with any rules on field stock pulling
 
You can't beat LCB's deal! I've seen it pull. If you want to build your own. Get a 460 IH. Strip it aluminum top cover. Cap bros hubs and steel wheels. Then a 301 from a 715 or 503 combine. Or a 8o6. 100 hp. Then you can win every once in a while.
 
M's are like belly buttons-everyone has one. Unless I was dead set on a farmall I would get an Oliver. It's a better tractor all around and a lot better looking.
 
Most of you guys are getting away from what he asked and he would have to check rules in his area. He is talking Farm Stock and through this area there are 3 clubs and farm stock is limited to tire size and no cut tires and no pressed steel wheels 0r aluminum wheels or trans. cover or remove PTO or hydraulic system and must pull stock drawbar. You are also limited to 10% over on engine Rpms with no MSD coils. One club your tractor can't weigh below min. factory shipping weight in some classes.The tractors your talking about are what is called class 2 top cut or class 3 modified around here.
 
(quoted from post at 01:09:36 08/18/17) Most of you guys are getting away from what he asked and he would have to check rules in his area. He is talking Farm Stock and through this area there are 3 clubs and farm stock is limited to tire size and no cut tires and no pressed steel wheels 0r aluminum wheels or trans. cover or remove PTO or hydraulic system and must pull stock drawbar. You are also limited to 10% over on engine Rpms with no MSD coils. One club your tractor can't weigh below min. factory shipping weight in some classes.The tractors your talking about are what is called class 2 top cut or class 3 modified around here.

D beatty, welcome to the YT coffee shop where conversations wander. So long as bad informations not given or the same thing is not repeated too many times most of us are happy following the topic as it wanders. Have a decaf :) !
 
Why I suggested a Moline. Pto, belt pulley and hydraulics were OPTIONAL. Many were built WITHOUT those components. Don't think any other brand can yield as much horsepower increase using factory specified components. Which should be legal under the strictest of rules
 
I, too, would be looking at a Minneapolis U rather than a Farmall for the 5500 pound class. For the 4000 and 4500, and maybe 5000 pound classes, I would look at a Minneapolis ZA or ZT. For the 3500 to 4500 pound classes, I would go with a Minneapolis R or ZT with a stock 206 ZA motor bolted in.

There is a lot of parts swapping easily done with the MM line, and as was previously stated, these tractors were sold new without PTO or hydraulics as an option, so removing those parts does not disqualify them from farm stock.

70 HP from a U or 40 HP from an R or ZT or ZA is as easy as bolting on stock parts. More power is available if you want to pay to play, especially with a MM U. 425 cubic inches in a U is a bolt in with factory parts.
 
I wouldn't build either. Its not worth it. I've been where your wanting to go. I thought it was a good thing to go where no model h gone before. In the end, all the hard work, simply was not worth it.
 
I can pull my 770 and the 66 at the same time but I can't take the Farmall 450 and anything but the golf cart because I'll be over 26000 lb. the truck weighs 9300 alone .
 

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