I am thinking about building a Ford 900 up (or buying) for pulling in Farm Stock 3.0 mph classes with 38" tires on it. My son could safely drive it as well. I grew up on an 850 and helped my dad overhaul it but I don't know anything about building the 172 engine up for pulling. I may need to stay with the stock block so going to a 192 may not be an option. I am looking for ideas at this point.
 

I pull a stock 960. The first thing to do is to is to get rules for the pulls that you will be entering. This will tell you what you need to work towards. Your Ford has a slight advantage to start out with in that it has the highest power to weight ratio in it's class. The trouble is that pretty much all of the stock tractors have a lot more power than stock. For starters you can replace the carb and manifold with those from an XX1 series, which are considerably larger. With your son on it, you may get it into 3000 lb class, by removing the hydraulics. Two of the strongest 960s are Jay Scasso's in Amenia NY and Von Kromm's in Ruann Indiana.
 
At the last pull I went to there was a 900 with a 4 speed and a sherman under-overdrive. Gave him a gear between 1st and 2nd on a five speed.But a five speed is best to start on. Lots of 900 Ford's in our area to pull with. Southern Illinois. Even come from Washington state. To tune up for tunica. Go to a few pulls and try to find out what others have done to theirs. Don't believe are stock, if can turn hard at end of track. In the farm stock 3750 the winning 0liver had 450 plus cu in. I got second. But did edge him out in the 3750 open. So you can beat a big tractor with speed limits.hope to pull with you-all sometime.
 
Just a 77 with a big motor. Some guys on here think speed limits don't level the playing field. I was trying to show they do have a chance.
 
(quoted from post at 19:21:08 07/15/16) Just a 77 with a big motor. Some guys on here think speed limits don't level the playing field. I was trying to show they do have a chance.

Sure, on a soft track the speed limit levels the field. The guy with the high powered tractor has too much power for his traction, 'cause he can't substitute speed for traction. Put him on the hard track, and slow him right down, and he will do fine because he has the power to keep those tires turning for fifty feet further than the near stock guy, even at the slower speed. As long as the power can be got to the ground, power rules.
 
Vic, I understand that a speed limit will negate his hp advantage, but in an open class his 12 mph should nnalert your lower speed of the 435. You edged him out in the open class? Thanks, Sam
 
Vic, speed limits do negate big hp advantages. But you edged him out in the open class? I would think a 450+ Ollie should cruise @ 12 mph in an open class. Thanks, Sam
 
No speed limit was still 4. But you could have 18.4 tires and any engine of same manufacture as frame. RD in a 460. 320 in a oliver. Also up to 1971 year. Also had 6 mph. 3 classes. Farm stock. 15.5 top cut. 4 MPH MOD and 6 mph
 
I pull a 55 960. it currently has a 4 speed and a Hi/Low Sherman in it. On 15.5/38s at 2940 rpm (20% over) it will run 3.5 mph in 1st gear with the 5 speed. Mine has the 55 172 block that was bored and resleeved for a 4.165 bore. Its easier to start from a 192 block but not necessary unless you want to get over 300 cubes. If your going to pull mostly stock classes I would put a 4" kit in it if it's sleeved, find a late model 134 head, install bigger valves do some bowl work on the heads and cut the chambers to 64cc. We have been using 1.94 & 1.60 Small block chevy valves +.100 long. Murphys Motorsports makes 1.95 ratio roller rockers that work well and my cam is a grind from Delta Cams. I run an MSD street fire ignition tripping the stock points but a Pertronix and their coil will be more than enough. As showcrop has indicated get the late model 01 series intake and carb. I would send the carb to MOTEC or use a series 3 MS carb if you can find one. Use the late model govenor. The two stage clutch can be built up enough to handle 70+ hp or you can convert the trans to the non-live version with the correct input shaft and flywheel.There are differences between early and late tractors so its best to find a complete setup matching your tractor. Then use a ceramic puck disc and heavy pressure plate. They are readily available. This should get you close to 70 HP properly tuned. If you have any questions I would be happy to help.
 

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