Creeper Gear B Thoughts

MDM

Member
I am looking at a creeper gear John Deere B to pull Div 1 and 2, stock stroke, 125 over M&W, head and block shaved .050 each. Any thoughts on the cam?
 

You will not sound the "Horn" with that creeper gear and you should have all the power you need without spending the time and $$$ on the new cam..
Traction will be your constant shortage..unless you weight it heavily for the heavier classes and even then you should still have enough power to spin-out (put a heavy amount on the Front)..!!

Now, if you were building a bigger cu in "B"...(Huge Bore and LONG Strike), a new cam might be what you would need to pull in 4th gear...

Ray (JDBPuller) at "Extreme" Originated the After-Market BIG BORE JD replacement Blocks (up to 6 1/8" for the "B"), but now several others have copied them and sell them also..

I have not seen any reports if they are as good, but they are available..

Ron..
 
Thanks Ron............I have a good pair of 11.2's, I am searching for a good pair of 12.4's for it.
 
Ask Mark Shellum what he thinks about Ray's blocks. From what I seen of one of the early ones they were thin as an egg shell and more suited for keeping boats from drifting away. As for Ray originating the idea jerry's was making blocks long before him. I believe Murphy's eventually acquired their line of blocks and heads. Ray crapped in his nest a long time ago.
 
As for a creeper gear b you wouldn't win anything around here with one in 1st gear. Personally I hate them. They make pulls last twice as long and are about as exciting as watching grass grow.
 
Depending on where he is located some clubs in antique farm stock class you have to pull in low gear. The only classes you can use a higher gear are in modified antique.
 
(quoted from post at 09:09:40 03/21/16) Depending on where he is located some clubs ....

That's a big factor right there. Transfer sled needs speed. Low gear will never win, unless everyone there pulls a slow gear.
Dead weight stone boat is a whole different animal. JD's shine at dead weight, long chain stone boat pulls.
 
I think what was meant in replies to your earlier post about cams was to have yours brought back to at least stock specs instead of spending a lot to add parts to try and make up for the fact you are well below stock to start with. Don't know what yur running for carb/manifold but a good cold gas manifold ( B 2472 R) ,gasket matched from carb mounting flange and tapered back about 3" into throat and then using a #71 (late A) carb will make a differenc you will feel. The carbs are identicle on outside and all use the "A" size gasket anyway so easy to grind it to match 71 opening. I've had mine on an 8' drag disc set at full angle and 75# sand bag on each gang and 4th gear (loam soil) and the ole girl gets with the program. If you have a flex dremel grinder you could hog the whole manifold runner out and even blend head port to valve pocket also. This is where you need good "unworn" cam specs and even hi ratio rocker arms. Josh Blackburn makes them from stock ones. If you don't want to remove cam then at least do the rockers.
 
My thoughts on most all low rpm tractor engines: it is hard to improve over what the factory designed,tested and built. Now if it is a "high winder ", or huge bore and stroke, there may be some benefits on a cam done right. I have seen many reground cams removed and replaced with stock and run better on stock.
 

I tried to get Ray to build me some custom pistons for my IHC H puller and after making a mold of the cavity in the head and sending him a piston, after six months of waiting and no work being done and no inclination from him that he was in any hurry. I finally called and told him to forget it and send me my piston back and I'd do something else. Thankfully it only took a few weeks for my piston to come back and not another six months. Another guy in our pulling club used him for his late styled JD B and after two years of waiting on parts that were already paid for they finally got them. He said I was lucky that I hadn't paid him any money yet, neither one of us will do business with him again.
 
You must have forgotten about the B that Brian ran a few years ago. He could win with that one on any track and most any weight class around here.
 


I HEAR what your saying...and that was more or less true..BUT..Ray was fighting what could have turned into Pancreatic Cancer at that time, AND..

There were several attempting to steal his unique Design..

Hmmm..I wonder just how similar some of the others are to his....?

I know, you were belly-aching hard AND Loud at the time..you got your parts and money back..Leave it alone, or do you just like to Bitc?...

Ron..
 


Well..HE was the Originator of the over=sized blocks you see in the JD's ..

Before that, most were saying the 2-Cylinder JD's were not able keep up and compete..

Whether you like it or not, HE brought these to reality and worked out the shortcomings long before the others came around..

Actually, I know it doesent mack a bit of difference..you are going to keep bitc?ing no matter..it just seems to be WHO you ARE..

Give the Man a break...AND give him the Credit he deserves for being a TRUE Puller..

Ron.
 


They had never made any blocks for the JD "B" and that is where Rays were originally aimed at..

I know your story..I heard it from Ray.. and you didn't get away with keeping that early experimental Block either..
 

Well, according to the Local Yokels here..NO such JD "B" has ever existed..!!

Maybe the one you are talking about is just a Rumor..??

Here is another one.. I WITNESSED Ray and his JD 70 Win his class once in Mt Gilead over..get this..an IH 1066...!!!!

Probably a fluke and maybe the 1066 didn't have the hair dryers spooled up well enough..but it HAPPENED...!!BUT..I can be sure these fine fellows won't believe that either..

Ron.
 
Well Ron, You certainly seem to have an obsession with Ray's perceived greatness. Now if ya'll are looking for a 1066 rematch I can arrange that for you.
 
(quoted from post at 04:47:08 03/22/16)

I HEAR what your saying...and that was more or less true..BUT..Ray was fighting what could have turned into Pancreatic Cancer at that time....


I do not wish possible cancer on anyone even my worst enemy. At the time I WISH he would have just said something, anything. Even if he didn't want to put his personal business out there I would have accepted anything such as don't have time, not accepting any new work right now or something along those lines.
However you are correct I did get parts back.

If I build another puller I might give him another chance.
 
creeper is usually not considered low gear at many pulls,may use next higher gear if equipped with "creeper" gear.My neighbors young daughter called me a CREEPER !!!!!!! Am I that slow??????
 
The club that I pull with would let you use it as long as it was available for that tractor. They will let me use the TA on the IH 450 in first gear and can use TA once in a pull.
 
(quoted from post at 18:13:40 03/20/16) I am looking at a creeper gear John Deere B to pull Div 1 and 2, stock stroke, 125 over M&W, head and block shaved .050 each. Any thoughts on the cam?
A reground camshaft by an established cam re-grinder, using proven specs for duration, split, and lift will improve a tractors’s performance. Some claim 7-11 HP, but for an otherwise stock engine, that may be optimistic. I have not compared an old bone-stock cam to a fresh regrind by dyno testing for the same engine, so I cannot speak to the HP claims. What is seat-of-the-pants noticeable is the low end torque improvement. Before rebuild, my JD A was lucky to start out on my uphill driveway in 5th gear, after the rebuild, including a re-ground cam, the tractor can easily start out in 6th gear and keep on going.
 
(quoted from post at 21:01:50 03/23/16) Did you go with a stock regrind or something custom?
The camshaft in my “warmed over” JD A was re-ground for a moderately improved application. Basically the configuration gives the tractor around 50 HP from its original 38, but the compression ratio was also raised a little, so I could not say how much each improvement contributes. At one time I knew the cam duration, lift, split, and spread, but did not save the information. For all-out pulling cams, I have cams from two different places, lobe heights are identical, difference is in duration, lobe separation, and split. Restoration and antique pulling have been around long enough now, so there are probably a number of profiles which work very well from established suppliers. Lifters should be refaced if the cam is re-done. I could not recommend sending a cam for re-grind to someone that does not have experience in antique engines, unless you are looking for new frontiers to conquer. As I found out, antique specs are completely different than high performance racing engines.
 
Well Mr. Banty Rooster if it was so hot why doesn't it pull anymore? I have no fear of it and I don't need a stroked crank to run in the same classes. Many of us were pulling before Brian could spell "tractor pull" I wonder how things would be if I spent even a portion of the money you have on pulling?
 
Several attempts to steal his designs? What about him trying to get someone (who I know)to buy Murphy's heads and blocks so he could copy them? Or him stealing Mel Bennets piston design for the 5576 head on a D series Case. Are you his paid spokesman or what because no one I know of pulling jd's are using his parts. As for me you don't know jack. I have been pulling 30 years but evidently I am supposed to worship him for being a "true puller?" You are 100% full of bs.
 

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