Tips on hardblocking a two cylinder block

I have a sleeved powerblock for a G with a bad water leak. It previously had some hardblock already put around the cylinders for some reason but not much. Wanting to fill the block completely so I can get rid of the headache of water in cylinders. Anybody done this? Any tips? How long does it have to sit to set up? Thanks in advance!

First off is the water coming in through a cylinder or some place else . G power blocks will crack the push rod gallery's so take a good look at that first. I usually fill them at least to the push rod gallery's and leave room for water to circulate from head out top of block. Take an old inner tube cut/punch holes to match stud pattern[old head gasket], old thick tractor ones work best. Next use a piece of 3/4" plywood put head stud pattern on it also. Use bolts with flat washers to tighten on front of block. Using the inner tube will keep the hard block just below the gasket surface. Let cure a minimum of 24 hrs I usually let them cure for 4-5 days. Make sure that when mixed it will flow and tap the block with a dead blow to help get a better fill without voids. I would make a plate for the top water outlet and pressure check the block with at least 100lb air pressure after it's cured.

(quoted from post at 06:48:46 02/08/16) I have a sleeved powerblock for a G with a bad water leak. It previously had some hardblock already put around the cylinders for some reason but not much. Wanting to fill the block completely so I can get rid of the headache of water in cylinders. Anybody done this? Any tips? How long does it have to sit to set up? Thanks in advance!

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Last summer I had trouble with water encroachment, a little in the oil and on occasion in the combustion chamber which quickly put out the fire. I inquired at HardBlok about using the concrete in a JD block and their recommendation was to put copper tubes from the head/block mating surface up through to the water outlet on the block which allows normal water circulation. I also asked a JD builder whose work I respect, about HardBloking a JD, he definitely recommended against it. After taking the tractor apart this past fall, I can understand why. I had inadvertently run the block without circulation around the cylinders. A leaking head gasket allowed combustion pressure to create steam/foam, so in spite of having a water pump, there was no cooling circulation. Foam does not pump. With the long stroke, at 1400+ rpms, a JD has very high piston speed. Piston speed and no water circulation caused elevated oil temperature, localized in the bore and the resulting friction just started to gall my piston skirts. Fortunately I did not run it long enough to cause significant damage. This is only my opinion, but it does not appear the JD horizontal piston orientation, cooling design, and high piston speed are best suited for HardBlok. I couldn’t argue with someone who has had success using it, but I felt the best long term solution was to correct my water problem. I had the surfaces remachined, changed my torque procedure and head gasket prep, now there is no evidence of cylinder pressure in the water jacket. I had also bolted the head and block together, blocked off the water openings and did a pressure test to verify my sleeves were not leaking. If one or the other had leaked, I would have had a new sleeve installed.