John Deere A Div II Clarifications

Thank you for reading in advance. I have never pulled before and I picked up a 1952 John Deere A that I want to tinker at this winter and get to some pulls next year. I figure I want to keep within Div II guidelines as that covers any local pull I might attend. But I have a few questions:

1) I believe I have confirmed that a "power block" is considered non-standard therefore would disqualify from Div II.
2) In keeping with those standards, would a Shwartz wide front end disqualify me as well? That wouldn't show up in the parts book.
3) There are some local pulls that state they will disqualify you if:
Weight classes and the maximum horsepower ratings as taken from www.tractordata.com
•4,500 lbs. - max PTO HP 35
•5,500 lbs. & 6,500 lbs. - max PTO HP 65
•7,500 lbs. - max PTO HP 85
Not that I expect to violate those limits but I don't have access to a dyno so how could I actually test where I am at?

I know a wide front is counterintuitive to what one might do to a pulling tractor but I want to create a tractor I enjoy driving, plowing, playing with as well as something I can take to a pull and "be competitive". I don't expect to win, just don't want to suck.

So I am just asking so that when I make any changes to the tractor, I am not asking to be disqualified before I even get a chance to try it out.

NATPA division 2 rules here. Might not meet rules in your area though.
NATPA Div. 2 Rules

(quoted from post at 12:49:16 11/29/15) NATPA division 2 rules here. Might not meet rules in your area though.
NATPA Div. 2 Rules

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So are you confirming that this line disqualifies a Schwartz front end even though it would appear stock?

"APPEARANCE - Tractors must maintain original stock appearance. [b:0a341b67a0]If a part is not found in the manufacturers’ parts book it cannot be used[/b:0a341b67a0]. No extra accessories allowed with the exception of weight
brackets, hang-on weights, wheelie bars, wheels, rims, bolt on hubs, draw bar, muffler and air cleaner"

what advantage would a schwartz front end give you ?come on natpa. need to get your head out of the rule book and wake up you are
shooting your self in the foot

Locate a Stroker Crankshaft FIRST..Go as LONG as you can manage to go without getting into the Cam or rear of the crankcase..

Let the Increased Stroke increase your compression, so you won't need to lengthen the connecting Rods..

DO install an Improved Cam..

You "Could" just install a 6" block (or Larger) while you are at it and then NOT even waste your time at the "Pulls"..it will be a Beast and you will Love it.!!

At least look into the Stroker crank and the Cam, along with cleaning up and MATCHING the Ports and DO get a TRUE High-Performance Job done on your Valves/Seats..

Ron..

(quoted from post at 22:58:31 12/05/15)
Locate a Stroker Crankshaft FIRST..Go as LONG as you can manage to go without getting into the Cam or rear of the crankcase..

Let the Increased Stroke increase your compression, so you won't need to lengthen the connecting Rods..

DO install an Improved Cam..

You "Could" just install a 6" block (or Larger) while you are at it and then NOT even waste your time at the "Pulls"..it will be a Beast and you will Love it.!!

At least look into the Stroker crank and the Cam, along with cleaning up and MATCHING the Ports and DO get a TRUE High-Performance Job done on your Valves/Seats..

Ron..

Click to expand...

Thanks for the thoughts Ron. Since moving the tractor in the garage last week for its winter tear down, I've been researching every aspect of this rebuild. I only want to open this engine up once so I am exploring every aspect and angle.

I took the head off yesterday and everything looks to be stock, had a compression of 100psi. That being said, at a minimum, the smart thing is to get the engine bored out for new pistons so that I'm not taking any short cuts. Then comes the fun part, I've been laying out my spreadsheet of options.

1) Stay simple, minor block bore, high comp pistons, get the head and valves cleaned up.
2) A little deeper project, block bore, longer rods, smaller pistons.
3) Get a stroker crank and take the full and aggressive project approach.

Its a tough balance of keeping costs reasonable (not cheap, just not crazy) and making a snappy engine that can still go to a local parade or hay ride and not be a one trick pony. I think I've read the term "compromiser" used on here, if the shoe fits, I'll wear it. This is my first two cylinder and my goal for the project is to learn so this has been a fun planning period so far!

Your club is different than ours in Class II. We don't go weight-horse power. We must keep engine stock and not over 10% increase in RPM in class II no matter what weight class you pull in.