Chevrolet 6 cylinder in a Oliver

I thought all bell housings from a 6cyl block up through the V8 small blocks bolted up to each other, possibly even the big blocks? The only differences would be mounting locations and possibly some other small things. If that's the case then all the bell housings that fit that block are an extremely tight fit in a Fleetline tub, especially when using the stock clutch fork. I had a S88 with a inline 6 out of a GM at one point that someone else had put together. Not sure on the engine size though. Could've been a 207 or a 262, I never did run the numbers to see what it was. Anyway they actually had to notch the frame for the clutch fork and the rod from the clutch pedal ran on the outside of the tub to engage the fork. On the other side they had to notch the frame for the starter as well. They bolted some C channel to both sides of the frame so I believe it was pretty strong but ugly as sin. I guess the previous owner actually had a loader on it and used it all the time. It was fun while I had it. If you wanted to push it, it would do 55 mph down the road. Front end would start to wobble though (young and stupid at that time). If you are putting this into a 4 digit Oliver I would assume there is more room in the tub but I couldn't help you there.
 
Only about 5% of 300's put into autos had a steel crank & only about 50% of industrials had it. Water pumps, airport tuggers, UPS trucks & power units. The only way to tell is to view the crank itself. The rest were Nodular cast iron.
 
Have 292 chevy in 40 cockshut with wide front end off 30 cockshut engine has been balanced also for sale with a turbo on it. All under hood with side curtions plus 2 xtra complete engines and 1 is a new long block plus other parts call if interested for more info 620 249 4385
 

I have a friend who used to have a '53 Chevy with a 261 and 3/4 race cam..
That thing would Beat a Chevy 348..
Somehow he had a fake 216 valve cover on it and Dragged at the Strip often..
Was a good runner..
Ron.
 
Well, never too old too learn something. I have a remanufactured long block (300 cu in) laying in the back of my van. How do I tell if the crank is steel - is there some type of marking or does one look for the forging parting line?
 
Only way I know is to look at the parting line. Forged is wide, cast is narrow/sharp. My brother knows the numbers I believe, I will ask.
 

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