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OIL FOR COOLEY SYSTEM

L

LCB

Member
I have a friend who is getting water in his oil. Has any body ever used diesel or some kind of oil in there radiator? If so what did you use and how did it work. Any help would be
appreciated. THANKS
 

The Oil-Pull Tractors used only oil in the cooling system..

If the system is not designed for it, the rubber hoses and/or seals will likely fail and the engine will not cool as well..oil will not flow nearly as freely as water and/or Glycol.

Ron.
 
run engine oil in the radiator, no water, keep a check on the oil level in the crankcase . when it gets higher , drain it and put clean oil in radiator then eventually fix the problem .
 
Yes that was two questions. He is getting water in oil and can not get it stopped with stop leak and even put liquid glass in it so he was wonderd about oil or are desel fuel in cooling system.
 

NO such luck, time to open it up and see what the problem is..
Anything less is just Wishful-Thinking..

Ron.
 
Leroy,
I have heard of plenty of Hot Farm tractors that started getting water in the oil pan during the pulling season. They all ran the same oil as their engine in the cooling system. Just check the crankcase level often and drain as needed to go back into the radiator. If the pulling season is done He needs to tear it down and see what the real problem is.
Good luck,
Jim
 
It is to long of story to go in to but to open up means starting over and building a hole new block. $$$$$$$. Thanks for the help.
 
One of our buddies runs oil in the radiator. Seems to work real well. Another one has his block full of hard block. He puts the water in the back of the head and takes it out the front. Has ran on 100 degree days that way.
 
I have a motor that, I believe is getting coolant around the hard blocked sleeves. Could this be a time to run oil in the radiator? Only have coolant in the head and top inch of the block. I have heard over time the hard block will weep coolant by the sleeve. Any thoughts??
 
Where I used to work we had a Bobcat 873 that ran engine oil in the cooling system, I don't remember which engine was in it we had so many of them, it would have been a late 80's.
 
On our WC I just poured K&N block seal straight on
top of the hard block. Had the head off, let the
stuff set for a week before I put antifreeze back
in it. That was 10 yrs or more ago. Do your
sleeves stick out a couple of thousands or are
flat. Ran a rotary broach over this same block
before put it back in the tractor. Thought maybe a
low sleeve was making it leak. On John's Massey it
started leaking also. It is same as your's almost
full of hard block.But it was the head gasket. He
took the head off and coated the copper gasket (I
recommend Aluminum paint) same gasket. It is still
holding Got 6th at Tunica. Have you took it apart.
Look at the head gasket real close. Vic
 
Yeah I've been having head gasket problems the sleeves are down about .002 I blew out several different head gaskets and finally went back to a Fel-Pro gasket. I haven't been having any problems with this new Fel-Pro in there besides the water leaking. I think the waters getting around the sleeves though not around the head gasket.
 
If you are hard blocked all the way to the head just weld the water holes going to the block shut and your problem is solved. This one is only hard blocked about half way up.
 

I have never used oil in a cooling system designed for water. However, should anyone have need to try it here are a few differences to consider:

1) Water has a specfic heat of 1.0 (btu/lb-degree F) as compared to oil which has a specfic heat around 0.5 (btu/lb-degree F). This means that to maintain the same engine cooling as with water, you would need to double the coolant flow rate when using oil.

2) Heat exchangers for use with oil are designed to create turbulent flow. This prevents cooled oil from forming a barrier along the cool tube walls while the hot oil flows through a center channel. Since the hot oil is insulated from the cool tube walls heat rejection is reduced. I have no experience using oil in a radiator intended for water - it may work fine. However, it is a difference to consider.

In conclusion:

Unless the above differences are accounted for, I would predict the engine temperature could increase significantly when using oil versus water for the coolant. In the case of a diesel this may not be a concern. However, for a high compression gasoline engine operating close to knock conditions it could indeed be significant.
 


While all of the comments are valid to some degree don't overlook the fact that we are dealing with engines that are not out plowing all day. I seriously doubt that an engine ran at full power for a minute or less is going to overheat using oil as a coolant. While I personally build so that the water and oil stay in their proper places I have friends that run leakers and to no bad result.

The smokers here in Pa. and I suspect around the nation run no coolant and don't even bother with freeze plugs, they are just in the way when you are cooling the engine down with a leaf blower at the end of the run.
 
i tried it, it stayed cool, going down the track, the engine died like key was shut off. tried turn fan, wouldnt turn, loosened the belt tension, cracked the radiator cap n it turned ok after that. so in my case, with the fan belt tight n cap on tight, it fluid locked the water pump.
 
i think leaving the belt loose helped most. it may have been an expansion problem being completly full, and didnt circulate right. i did both loose cap n loose belt n drained a qt out all at same time, pulled it one more time, n put in a new block. a .060 smaller bore kept it inside the block walls.
 
We are talking about a Oliver motor. Mine only holds 2 gallons of coolant and I'm not running a water pump anyway. So that maybe something to consider. I may just try running oil. Currently I run 15/30 Rotell. I may try a 15 weight oil.
 
i have used fiberglass resin poured into waterjacket n let set for a week. slowed leaks down big time, then when sealer was used it stopped. my guess, it was ground into bottom of block n hit water when clearing the rods at bottom of cyls?
 
77 diesel, is your block fitted for larger sleeve set (over 3.75) bore? or a stock sleeve set? if its a gas engine, id pull it apart n deck block n make sleeves standout .002 providing you dont have to mill .010 or less to get it back into spec.
 
4 inch bore hard blocked to within 1.5 inches of deck. No pulling sleeves out. Could deck it flat but I think it is leaking around the hard block.
 
i used to go to cvs n order quarts of sodium silicate. a thick clear liquid, thats used in block sealer. that slowed my big leaks down n is water soluable. or, like Vic said, he poured in his sealer before head was on, poured it right into the block n let it set for a spell. i would have block decked, fix that area,, then try the sodium silicate, or the block sealer poured right into block. 3-5 cans, set block in back of your truck n head off road or a real bumpy road so it shakes down in where its leaking. the method may sound backyard mechanic, but it may work vs a new block.
 
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