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WD Allis cam

W

WFE270NWIA

Member
The WD is a stock 2.5 MPH puller, 20% over RPM. Going through the motor this winter. WD 45 crank, 4.125 pistons, and was wondering about the cam. Where is a good place to have the cam ground. Thanks.
 
(quoted from post at 19:15:17 09/08/14) The WD is a stock 2.5 MPH puller, 20% over RPM. Going through the motor this winter. WD 45 crank, 4.125 pistons, and was wondering about the cam. Where is a good place to have the cam ground. Thanks.
Click to expand...

are we going 20 percent over stock rpms or are we keeping stock rpms since it matches 2.5 mph in first with stock rpm?

edit

there is a post on the allis forum that i made titled where to get a 175 cam,the beginning is old but towards the end its up to date. apparently Berrys cams quality has fallen dramatically over the last little bit
 
The biggest problem is the cam timing. Where it is set in relationship to the crankshaft from the factory is no where close to optimae. Simply put, the valve events are happening at the wrong time in relationship to the piston cycling.

For as slow as you are going to be running the engine, and as mild as it is going to be you just don"t want to much cam. Your stock cam will work well if timed correctly, though grinding one with another 10 or so degrees of duration sure won"t hurt. Its going to take some tools and measuring to get it in the engine correctly.
 
(quoted from post at 14:37:56 09/10/14) The biggest problem is the cam timing. Where it is set in relationship to the crankshaft from the factory is no where close to optimae. Simply put, the valve events are happening at the wrong time in relationship to the piston cycling.

For as slow as you are going to be running the engine, and as mild as it is going to be you just don"t want to much cam. Your stock cam will work well if timed correctly, though grinding one with another 10 or so degrees of duration sure won"t hurt. Its going to take some tools and measuring to get it in the engine correctly.
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what kind of special tools are we talking about? the shop its pretty well outfitted but wouldn't want to halt the project due to not having tools.

also would it be worth it to have the can reground with the extra duration or wouldn't there be much of a difference.


in case you are confused wfe270 and myself are working on the tractor together. he is my grandpa
 

You'll need a degree wheel and dial indicator to measure the piston and find true TDC, set the degree wheel and then measure the lifter rise to an squill point before and after peak lift. You'll need a way to slot the holes that hold the cam gear to the cam, or a means of cutting a new keyway for the cams that are keyed to the gear.

On all the crankshafts I have out of engines, I put them in the lathe and drill and tap the nose as well as face it off. This gives me an easy place to mount the degree wheel. For the ones that are not coming out, I machined a hub to fit on the crank and lock on that is threaded so I can mount the degree wheel.

There's a fair bit of time involved in degreeing a cam, but its about the so gle most important part of building an engine. I'm not going to waste the time to explain it on here, but I'd be glad to explain it to you or lend a hand over the phone when you're doing the process. I degree a lot of cams, lock things down and mark out the new timing marks and engrave the gear and send the package to people so they simply have to line up the marks and get their plug wires on in the right order.
 
Do offset keys still work for small timing adjustments?

What do they use for the variable cams in cars: a fixed exhaust camshaft and a hydraulic actuator to advance/retard the intake camshaft?
 
(quoted from post at 18:46:58 09/10/14)
You'll need a degree wheel and dial indicator to measure the piston and find true TDC, set the degree wheel and then measure the lifter rise to an squill point before and after peak lift. You'll need a way to slot the holes that hold the cam gear to the cam, or a means of cutting a new keyway for the cams that are keyed to the gear.

On all the crankshafts I have out of engines, I put them in the lathe and drill and tap the nose as well as face it off. This gives me an easy place to mount the degree wheel. For the ones that are not coming out, I machined a hub to fit on the crank and lock on that is threaded so I can mount the degree wheel.

There's a fair bit of time involved in degreeing a cam, but its about the so gle most important part of building an engine. I'm not going to waste the time to explain it on here, but I'd be glad to explain it to you or lend a hand over the phone when you're doing the process. I degree a lot of cams, lock things down and mark out the new timing marks and engrave the gear and send the package to people so they simply have to line up the marks and get their plug wires on in the right order.
Click to expand...

i know from the allis forum you are a well respected and experienced engine builder. would you be interested in doing the Cam for us? i hope wfe posts on here again he understands stuff like this maybe he knows how to do it and its not as hard as it sounds to me. just wondering if you do Cam work or not. thanks
 
Hi Josh, been trying to get a hold of you, but your mail box is full. Give me a call at 712-475-3953. After 6:00 PM is best. Thanks.
 
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