Dieseltech

Well-known Member
Location
Akron, Indiana
Saw a hot farm diesel JD with the hood up recently at a pull between runs being cooled with air blown through the engine. No radiator or coolant leaks to worry about, was interesting. Tractor ran strong too!
 
(quoted from post at 04:34:50 09/10/14) Saw a hot farm diesel JD with the hood up recently at a pull between runs being cooled with air blown through the engine. No radiator or coolant leaks to worry about, was interesting. Tractor ran strong too!

DT,

That is common practice nowadays with the hot classes, there are several strong running Cases here in Pa. that use that setup. Make the run. get towed off and cool it down through the empty freeze plug holes with a leaf blower.

I would think they must loosen the clearance piston to wall up a bit but not sure about that. Anyway it obviously works. Anyway, it would cheapen up the rebuild cost, look at what you'd save in freeze plugs and sleeve orings, LOL.

Edit to add, most are running filled or solid cast heads anyway and have been for years.

mEL
 
We have a ford around here that's running filled head with dry block. Says he has about .025" cylinder clearance. Runs strong, but can't pull more than once, a pull off would really mess him up.
 
Thanks for replies. Have another question, am thinking of pulling out the dry sleeves on a four cylinder Perkins and running Case 4 5/8 pistons in the block bore IF the walls check thick enough compared to the Case wet sleeve. Question is can the deck have a groove cut and a replaceable ring used for sealing compression, eliminating the head gasket? If so what would best seal the oil push rod area? am thinking using no coolant also.
 
There was a post about this about a year ago. I think it said to cut a .040 groove in the head then use a .14 copper electric wire cut off at a 45 deg then silver soldered. He said he just smeared silicone on everything else. Vic
 

Vic, that was me and the post drew some comments about being impractical for most builders or some such nonsense. If you are running sleeved engines it is a simple matter to have a cut put in the sleeve edge, a hobbyist with a lathe in his basement can do that.

We make our firerings out of .060 #14 Ga. electric wire and dot the ends together with silversolder. Red RTV handles the liquids although where we have an oil passage we put an oring cut in the head surface to seal the oil pressure. Anyone who wants to run head gaskets for whatever reason may do so but oringing sure solved a multitude of problems for us.

For non sleeved engines a ring could be just as easily be cut into the head surface.

mEl
 
Thanks, mEL. I am to the point where the head gaskets don't hold for long anymore and was planning on your O ring setup placed in top of the block. Would .020 compressing of the .060 wire be enough? I used to work at a speed shop that reworked Chevy 400 blocks, a grove was cut around each bore for a wire to lock behind the gasket fire ring for support to hold the pressure. I like your ideas for NO gasket, and any machine work needed to eliminate it would be a plus.
 

DT,

A .040 deep X.080 groove will give you the ring crush that you need. With a .060 soft copper wire you will find the head wraps right down over it at torque by that I mean the fire ring will be above the deck height but the head will be on the block.

If you make your silver solder joint properly so it is the size of the wire you will have no problems at all. The Red HiTemp silicone will seal all the water ports. The only advice, don't overdo the rtv as it will squish out into the water passages if overdone.

As stated before, it can be done on the head also but I use wet sleeves and it is easy to cut a groove where the top of the sleeve meets the block. On some engines ths is not possible as we cut out into the water passages on DCs so we move in and make the whole groove in the sleeve, By that I mean that the groove has an outer wall as well.
 

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