Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
How much work is it to use an H rod on a 5.5 D17 crank. How much extra cutting will need to be done cam and block and such.
 
I've put together several allis engines with the h and 350 rods. At 5.5" stroke you won't have much work. I do a lot of work to the rods to gain clearance but at that stroke you will have just a few places to touch in the block where the oil pan rail is. Turn the can down slightly between the lobes and it would help to narrow the rods but not an issue for 5.5" stroke. Depending on the bore a slight notch in the sleeves.

Mock up assemble the engine and mark the crank so your crank shop can center the crankpins between the can lobes.

I cut the rods on a turn table and then do a fair bit of grinding. I counter sink 3/8" x 24tpi 1.5" long 180 psi Allen headed cap screws in the rod caps also or I use some ARP Chevy rod bolts in some and counter sink them. H rods have a larger wrist pin and I make a rod bushing to go down to a .990 or .927 pin typically.

Those Farm all engines used a 2.29" and 2.25" crankpin. Rod bores are the same. It's just a different rod bearing so I use the 2.29" crankpin so there's more material to use in the future.

I do have a d17 crank on hand to sell that is 5.75" stroke with the 2.29" crankpin, standard mains and balanced.
 

In the earlier blocks there's some differences but then later d17 blocks have minimal differences. They are wider above the pan rail. I made a tool to clearance the engines and to send to people who have questions as to what rod works with what stroke in what block. It's simple slugs turned out to common rod bores and main bores and arms made at the crank offset, or meaning half the stroke length. This way you can see what needs to be done and not have to assemble, grind, clean over and over with your good parts.

Hopefully the pic loads.

mvphoto9064.jpg
 

I'd prefer to sell the crank with rods, pistons, rings and a block all done to match. It's a package I put together for someone who never sent a check. I've been going to advertise it but just never took the time.

JE forged pistons, wrist pins, Total Seal gapless rings.
Farmall H rods clearanced and balanced, sized, countersunk bolts, etc.
D17 block bored with large sleeves. Bored, honed and decked.
D17 crank at 5.75" stroke with standard mains and 2.29" crankpins.
New rod and main bearings.

Block has been clearanced and all clearances checked. Ready for assembly.
 

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