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jd plowboy

04-05-2014 17:56:08

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ok, here it goes. i know what i am talking about cause i have the setup using the buda diesel rods. you will have to do crank work to use these rods. the reason is that a buda rod is 2 inches in diameter and a wd45 is 2 3/8 inches. to use this setup you have to offset grind the crank to accept the 2 in journal buda diesel rod. you grind off the bottom of the crank until the journal gets to 2 inches for the diesel rod. this will give you 3/8 of a inch stroke. this will go from 4.5 stroke to 4.875. the piston i got in mind is a wc/wd 4 1/8 flattop and it will put the piston at .400 thousandth from the top of block. also with the diesel rods there has to be a bushing made to fit the wd piston pin. i did my motor in 2008 and at that time there were none of those bushings left in the united states the guy told me so he had one and made me a set of them.i used the 4 inch head and only did a 3 angle valve job on it. i also had a cam ground but the man that did it passed away several years ago. i have pulled this engine since 2008 and it has not gave me any problems at all. the offset grind may cost more tham 350 now but not sure in your area. it was 350 here in sc 4 or 5 years ago where my brother had one done. i know there is alot of engine builders on here and alot of talkers. im not a engine builder but my dad has worked on heavy equipment and cars and trucks for 50 years and he, myself and my brother but this engine together. also when shimming your crank leave it alittle loose and it will work better. the machind shop guy shimmed mine thinking that putting it alittle tigher will give more oil pressure and it started knocking after 30 minutes of run time. that does not work with a allis. if you get 20lbs of oil pressure it will live and be more than plenty. that is what mine does now and has since day one. we shimmed it loose and like i say it has ran for 6 years now with no problems. just have it where you can turn it with your hand and it will work. hope this helps

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