CONECTION RODS

Have a WD45 motor ..wanting to stroke what rods do i need ...buda 230 diesel rods or 262 gas or diesel ..dont want to do crank work..thanks..
 
John brings up a good point..lol.. either Buda rods will work. you have to rebush the small end of the rods. The only difference between the gas and diesel is the diesel rod has a hole drilled through the beam for pin oiling.

A crank regrind will probably cost $250-350. but you better figure out what piston you are gonna use before you do anything that cant be undone. where are you from?
 
i have the same setup you are talking of. you have to offset grind the crank for this setup and it is a good bit of work involved. the guy that did mine several years ago took a little while on it but it was right. i have the diesel rods and used wd flattop pistons and it has worked good for 8 years now and no problems.
 
Running what you've got is great if you know it will work/fit. Otherwise you are gonna throw some money away fast
 
I just read your post on unnofficial Allis... Yeah....no. Disregard what I said, cause you are trying to do something that won't work. No offense but, This is what happens when you try to use what is laying around, when the wrong stuff is laying around.
 
yeah I'm a little confused too. You can't change a stroke just by changing rods. you have to physically alter the crank, either with an offset grind or welding onto it and grinding it to the stroke you want.
 
ok, here it goes. i know what i am talking about cause i have the setup using the buda diesel rods. you will have to do crank work to use these rods. the reason is that a buda rod is 2 inches in diameter and a wd45 is 2 3/8 inches. to use this setup you have to offset grind the crank to accept the 2 in journal buda diesel rod. you grind off the bottom of the crank until the journal gets to 2 inches for the diesel rod. this will give you 3/8 of a inch stroke. this will go from 4.5 stroke to 4.875. the piston i got in mind is a wc/wd 4 1/8 flattop and it will put the piston at .400 thousandth from the top of block. also with the diesel rods there has to be a bushing made to fit the wd piston pin. i did my motor in 2008 and at that time there were none of those bushings left in the united states the guy told me so he had one and made me a set of them.i used the 4 inch head and only did a 3 angle valve job on it. i also had a cam ground but the man that did it passed away several years ago. i have pulled this engine since 2008 and it has not gave me any problems at all. the offset grind may cost more tham 350 now but not sure in your area. it was 350 here in sc 4 or 5 years ago where my brother had one done. i know there is alot of engine builders on here and alot of talkers. im not a engine builder but my dad has worked on heavy equipment and cars and trucks for 50 years and he, myself and my brother but this engine together. also when shimming your crank leave it alittle loose and it will work better. the machind shop guy shimmed mine thinking that putting it alittle tigher will give more oil pressure and it started knocking after 30 minutes of run time. that does not work with a allis. if you get 20lbs of oil pressure it will live and be more than plenty. that is what mine does now and has since day one. we shimmed it loose and like i say it has ran for 6 years now with no problems. just have it where you can turn it with your hand and it will work. hope this helps
 
I don't suggest Leroi rods because they so difficult to find. They are out there, but on Allis forum, he wants to use h rods n 350 pistons
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top