Prepping for a few hours on the dyno

shawnm

Member
I'll have my super m rebuild completed shortly and plan on taking it to my new holland dealer for dyno time.

This will be my first time spending any time on the dyno and I want to make sure I'm prepared. I'll have a fresh c264 over bore kit, head, cam, roller rockers, electronic ignition, and rebuilt carb.

I plan on taking my timing light, lots of fuel and what else? Should I have different distributor advanced weights with me? Bigger/smaller Venturi's for testing? Plugs?
 
First, run it for 1/2 hour, shut it down, drain the oil, re torque the
head, and set the valve lash.

If you don't re torque the head first, you may blow the gasket out on the
dyno.

I would then go to the dyno, and bring a drain pail and more oil
and do a second oil change after 1-2 hrs of dyno time.

A slot screwdriver for carb adjustments, and a 1/2 inch wrench
for distributor adjustments.

You can work it hard, but don't lug a new motor. Keep the rpm's up when your on the dyno. This keeps good oil flow, good oil splash, and good coolant flow.
 
Ive built a few of them just like what you have. they had an 8060 head that isn't the best and roller rockers and some milled off of the head so it was flat with a little work done to the carbuerator. Make sure the gear on the camshaft hasn't ruined the cam before you go back together from the pump putting a load on it. I always warm them up on the dyno then re torque the head and check for leaks. Then run the heck out of it and see what it will hold at 540 rpms on the dyno by adjusting timing and adjusting the carbuerator. At Caterpillar our engines go to full load as soon as they start on the dyno.
 
(quoted from post at 15:18:33 03/13/14)Make sure the gear on the camshaft hasn't ruined the cam before you go back together from the pump putting a load on it.

What do you mean by the gear ruining the cam? What causes this?

What type of oil should I run for the initial break in? Standard 15w40?
 
If you are using a cam that has been in a tractor with hydraulics the pump puts a load on the gear on the front of the camshaft it is a taper fit. It works loose and lets the gear wobble. Its a common problem. Just make sure you have a good cam and one that the nut tightens the opposite direction. It is a very simple engine you are building. Just torque everything and check everything over good. Retorque the head after it is hot then run the heck out of it. You will Make around 65 hp. at 540 rpms on the dyno. I run rotella t 1540 in my tractors. Find some good 14.9 tires and you are ready to go and win. My uncle has my old super m in Florida now pulling and is having fun and enjoying life at the pulls.
 

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