I am in the process of treating down a flat tappet engine. The Cam was reground, and lifters resurfaced about 5 years ago. This is just a puller, and had very few hours on the motor.

the Cam and lifters are done. The lifters have not been rotating in the bores and are badly worn where they contact the Cam. When they were assembled, they got lots of Cam break in Lube.

What do i need to do so that this doesn't happen to the new can and lifters?
 
(quoted from post at 05:15:40 01/20/14) Cam should be ground on a slight taper so lifters rotate.
Sent some lifters out for being resurfaced and when they returned, they had been ground flat, no crown. One of my friends, a full time racing engine builder, was doing modification for a customer to a JD B, sent the lifters out for resurfacing and they also came back flat. We were disappointed because automotive flat tappet lifters need a slight crown to promote rotation.

We didn't know if there is enough offset between the lifter bore and cam lobe where rotation will take place without the crown.

Are all tractor flat tappet lifters just ground flat or should they also have a slight crown?
 
from what i have been told a barrel style needs to be ground convex as Gary said but a mushroom style usually has enough offset from the cam lobe to make it self rotate being ground flat, ask a knowlegable cam grinder or engine builder as things vary from one engine to another
 

DO be aware that "Modern" automotive engine oils are not formulated for use in Flat Tappet engines..
You need to use Diesel-rated oil that still has Sulfur, to protect the Flat Tappet cam and lifters.

FWIW...

Ron.
 
I did a little reading on the net, and found out that comp cams says not to use synthetic oils with a flat sold lifter Cam.

I was using synthetic, but am not certain i believe the oil was the problem. I used royal purple. The one which is not api certified, and is supposed to be high in zddp.

Anyway, just wondering if anyone has suggestions for oil for break in, and then regular use?
 
(quoted from post at 20:19:12 01/19/14) I am in the process of treating down a flat tappet engine. The Cam was reground, and lifters resurfaced about 5 years ago. This is just a puller, and had very few hours on the motor.

the Cam and lifters are done. The lifters have not been rotating in the bores and are badly worn where they contact the Cam. When they were assembled, they got lots of Cam break in Lube.

What do i need to do so that this doesn't happen to the new can and lifters?
Break-in
Synthetic oil break-in for high performance engines is common and there is no reason why it cannot be used for lower RPM tractor engines. Royal Purple Break-in oil and Joe Gibbs BR both work acceptably well in and have been using one or the other for many years for flat tappet racing engines. I just happen to use Gibbs oil at this time due to a cost break from my supplier.
For engines using a billet cam, billet hard coated lifters with EDM oiling, and up to 500lb OTN spring pressure, we are not using break-in springs or low ratio rockers for break-in. Run engine as-assembled, for 20 min to operating temp, set timing, shut down, set lash, drain oil, check filter for debris, if OK, pour in XP3 and the engine is ready to go.
For engines using a cast iron core cam and iron lifters, remove inner valve spring or use break-in springs with seat pressure less than 100lb. Run for 30 min at operating temp 180-200 deg F, set timing during run time, shut down, set lash, drain break-in oil, check filter, if OK, install operating valve springs, pour in the XP3 and its ready to go.
During run-in we are establishing wear patterns that can be maintained during service. I’ve not had a cam or valve train failure in 15 years.

Operating with Synthetic Oil
The long term life of a tractor engine may not like synthetic oil as an automotive style engine. Unlike racing engines, many tractor engines lack the same valve train/upper end oiling, without modification. Compared to a racing engine, tractor engines starve the valve train, but the volume of oil was adequate under conditions for which the engine was designed. In a true high performance engine, the valve train is literally flooded for both lubrication and cooling. For a tractor engine, it may be better in the long run to use a petroleum based oil such as Kendall 20W-50W, an oil that clings, drips, and does not drain off as fast. An established tractor engine builder would have to answer the long term benefits of running synthetic oil. Synthetic oils in racing engines are used to reduce both friction and crank case windage and I would guess these features are not nearly so important where an engine rarely sees 3500 rpm compared to an engine that never drops below 3,500.
 
Cam lube is good enough with regular oil .if cam was broke in properly. Hard to blame on lube or oil when it could be variables like to loose of lash ,springs or just not broke in correctly.just my opinion
 

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