(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

spinnin tires

J

jamie majors

Member
I went too 11 pulls with our club this season and my tires spun out at the same time all but twice, is there anything i can do to stop this from happening or is this just the way it is.

its a farmall super h

thanks
 
(quoted from post at 02:04:00 09/25/13) I went too 11 pulls with our club this season and my tires spun out at the same time all but twice, is there anything i can do to stop this from happening or is this just the way it is.

its a farmall super h

thanks
Click to expand...

What tire psi are you running? Tire psi can vary with different tracks, and different weight classes. I wouldn't run 2nd gear above 5000lbs class as you wont have the balls to even get half way down the track.
 
There is nothing wrong with spinning out if you are in the hunt. Beats being 50' behind when you stall out in the next higher gear.

How are you placing; 1st, 2nd, last? How far are you behind the leaders? Are your front wheels skimming the ground or just off the ground the end of the pull? What weight classes are you running? What is the maximum tire size allowed? What tire size are you running? Cut, road worn (sharp), top cut, uncut, etc.?
 
usually place 2nd to last, around 75 to 100ft behind leader, tractor is all stock with newer 12.4 on it, not enough power to bring front off the ground, natpa rules div 2
this was my first year doing this so I'm learning and havin a blast doing it
were building a hitch and wheelie bars for it over winter
 
Those are reasonable, respectable results for the first year of pulling. If you have enough power to spin out you have enough power to bring the front end off the ground. You need to work on balancing the tractor. This is a matter of weight bracket locations, weight placement, hitch, tire pressure, tire tread, etc. At this point, work on moving weight further back until the front end is just skimming the ground or off the ground 6-12" at the very end of your pulls. See if someone can record your pulls with an emphasis on the back tires. Are they squatting a bit, have a little bit of a wrinkle in the side wall at the end of the pull? You want a shark front edge on your tires with the back of the lugs lower than the front edge. You do not want a lot of tread on the tires. Half the original lug height is plenty on most tracks.

Good Luck!
 
(quoted from post at 01:10:03 09/26/13) Those are reasonable, respectable results for the first year of pulling. If you have enough power to spin out you have enough power to bring the front end off the ground. You need to work on balancing the tractor. This is a matter of weight bracket locations, weight placement, hitch, tire pressure, tire tread, etc. At this point, work on moving weight further back until the front end is just skimming the ground or off the ground 6-12" at the very end of your pulls. See if someone can record your pulls with an emphasis on the back tires. Are they squatting a bit, have a little bit of a wrinkle in the side wall at the end of the pull? You want a shark front edge on your tires with the back of the lugs lower than the front edge. You do not want a lot of tread on the tires. Half the original lug height is plenty on most tracks.

Good Luck!
Click to expand...

Agreed. A Farmall H has enough power to bring the front end off the ground in first gear. I really wouldn't pull in 2nd except for 4500# class, I might do that. Ideally, you would want your front tires about 1" off the ground. I've done that before but its difficult to gage where weights should be placed to get that perfect balance. Without a doubt from your post, you need more weight in the back.
 
(quoted from post at 06:07:01 09/26/13)
(quoted from post at 01:10:03 09/26/13) Those are reasonable, respectable results for the first year of pulling. If you have enough power to spin out you have enough power to bring the front end off the ground. You need to work on balancing the tractor. This is a matter of weight bracket locations, weight placement, hitch, tire pressure, tire tread, etc. At this point, work on moving weight further back until the front end is just skimming the ground or off the ground 6-12" at the very end of your pulls. See if someone can record your pulls with an emphasis on the back tires. Are they squatting a bit, have a little bit of a wrinkle in the side wall at the end of the pull? You want a shark front edge on your tires with the back of the lugs lower than the front edge. You do not want a lot of tread on the tires. Half the original lug height is plenty on most tracks.

Good Luck!
Click to expand...

Agreed. A Farmall H has enough power to bring the front end off the ground in first gear. I really wouldn't pull in 2nd except for 4500# class, I might do that. Ideally, you would want your front tires about 1" off the ground. I've done that before but its difficult to gage where weights should be placed to get that perfect balance. Without a doubt from your post, you need more weight in the back.
Click to expand...
build your front weight bracket as far out as possible, giving it the most leverage possible. than put 10 percent of your weight from added weight on front, for example with my wd in 3500 pound class we have about 800 pounds or so of movable weight, so we throw and 80 ish pound weight on the front, that will get you close to the right weight distribution, of course this all depends on the track, a better biting track will need more front weight so you dont have to steer with the brakes. another thing i would do is drive your tractor down a paved road to sharpen the tires a bit. also if you are new to this dont worry about power, i beat alot of tractors with way more power than me by having better weight distribution than they did, i beat hopped up olivers and farmalls with my stock, smoking wd.
 
i pulled in 4500lbs i had 3250 on back and 1250 on front, i had one set of wheel weights on, i tried 5000lbs and a couple times i could pull longer than i did in 4500 and i never added any weight
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

V
ATPA & VTPA announce three upcoming two-day events at the National Farm Machinery Show.
Replies
1
Views
581
Kent2255
Kent2255
K
Farmall Super A UMF / bean pulling issue
Replies
5
Views
214
EFV
E
W
The “new” 560
Replies
9
Views
836
Ellis Kinney
Ellis Kinney
T
Overheating (radiator/thermostat related)
Replies
18
Views
590
Bruce(OR)
B
M
630 rod bearing
Replies
4
Views
262
Loosehandle
Loosehandle
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top