cam regrind

looking to get my cam regrind this winter on my M.how much is it for baker to do it. i'm on a limited budget and can't do all of the motor at once just one thing at a time.
 
Baker can build some good running tractors but his cams suck. Find someone that cam grind it without the large amount of overlap that he has. You need more intake duration than exhaust duration.
 
(quoted from post at 11:05:36 08/27/13) Baker can build some good running tractors but his cams suck. Find someone that cam grind it without the large amount of overlap that he has. You need more intake duration than exhaust duration.

Could you be more specific? I have a baker ground cam in my CASE 711b 267 cubes. She'll pull the sled with the weight all the way forward, throttled back to 800 RPMs in third gear, in 7k, 7.5k and 8.5k 3.5mph

So a little more information, would be helpful. Like what classes, how fast? Your statement painted a pretty broad stroke.
 
Large amounts of overlap? Doesn"t sound like a Baker spec. cam for a low RPM motor to me. What was/is your application and how long ago was the cam done?
 
thats hard to beleive at 800 rpms in 3rd gear. you need to bring it to our sleds and it wont pull them like that. 267 cubes aint enough for those classes in 3rd gear
 
(quoted from post at 16:07:49 08/27/13) maybe their chain is ten foot long and sandy ground

Nope hard red clay. Dont know chain lenght, but it's not ten feet. Hey it's just brush pulling here for the most part, and not the point I was trying to make.

The guy was trashing Baker cams, and I gave a counter.
 
Baker can build some strong motors but there are better cams than what he sells. His cams are better than a stock cam, BUT they are not the best.

If you take the time to air flow your head, manifolds, and carburetor and then design a cam that balances both the intake and exhaust. You will get a cam that completely different than what Baker sells.

Baker may be your motor building god. but his cams could be a lot better.
 
Really....don"t tell his customers how bad he is....what have you built? Other than alot of names....casecase,lapuller,Ed ky&mmmmmmmm ....oh how"s the weather in In.? Email open FYI
 
I think the ten foot chain in sandy ground only works on a H farmall with a ten pound home made weight up front pulling 8500!
 
you need to have cam built to your motor specs.... so you need to know what you will be doing it stroke,bore,what rpms 3,000 or 2,200 it all play a roll in the gam grind....there bullet cams,baker,crane cams I know did one for a buddy,there are a bunch of cam grinders...if any builder going to do other work to your motor you may want to send it all at once....and everything will be from same builder....for that spec you are building....
I hope this info helps...
kelly
 
Never seen a good running tractor with a sucky cam lol. We've pulled against a lot of baker engines and they run fantastic. Tons of torque and throttle response and power. You probably didn't degree your cam in proper. Just threw it in and expected big results.
 
well sonny daniels at bullet pulls a m could try his. could try Charles at cam craft he uses the lifters diameter to accelerate the lifter to the max which is always a good thing. just suggestions if wanting something different not saying one is better or worse than any others suggestions.
 
3rd gear in a Case 700/800 series at full throttle is only about 3 mph, really quite slow and maybe about the same as 1st or 2nd in other brands.
 
Mushroom cam followers/lifters have long been a method to allow steeper opening and closing ramps. To gain more area under the curve with the same duration.
Chev NASCAR engine builders were using the larger diameter Ford lifter to gain flow.
Of course a solid roller cam allows even more breathing.
 
a solid lifter with a tad over 1 inch base can be accelerated the same as a roller wheel diameter of .842 . Most tractors are either 1.250 to 1.5 diameter and can be accelerated as fast or faster than any production roller lifter . Charles at cam craft has a good article on his web site about lifter diameter and acceleration.
 
Large diameter lifters do not mean a builder can arbitrarily put in a radical profile with a steep ramp; materials, heat treating, and, matching surface hardness are critical. For flat tappet cams using .875 or .904 lifters with moderate profiles we’re running valve springs with 500 lb over the nose, $360/set, steel core cam, $750, and PPPC steel billet lifters w/casidium coating and an EDM oil hole @ $900/set. So, yes, a larger lifter certainly allows a much more radical cam profile, but it isn’t cheap. Camshaft profile is an interesting topic but requires evaluation of at least 11 key factors in engine performance. Piston crown, chamber shape, chamber volume (the whole upper configuration and comp ratio), intake runner volume, runner profile (desired flow velocity), rocker ratio, max valve lift, piston speed, lifter dia, top engine RPM, and desired max torque RPM. My experience is primarily circle track engines but I’m guessing the power curve for pulling with a naturally aspirated lower RPM engine, isn’t that much different. Power on the low end (torque) with a steady increase in HP up to max RPM. I’ve only begun my first two tractor engines, so we’ll find out if racing actually translates or I’m just full of it. On our used but not abused parts shelf are cams from Comp, Crower, Isky, and Bullet. All worked well when matched to the engine configuration and RPM range being used. One of the bigger mistakes I see is people just copying something they have seen or heard about without thinking it through and optimizing all factors, usually ending up with a bad power curve. The other issue I see is guys are not taking the time to degree in the cam so the engine can operate in the productive part of the power band. Usually cams are installed too late, too high int centerline deg so the engine bogs down low and they think they have a bad cam. A street stocker dropped off a motor last month, sure enough, the cam was in at 102 and should have been 98 or 99. I’ve only had one mfg with a poor cam which was actually bad workmanship, steel core w/roller lobe blanks, ground to a flat tappet profile, but neglected to re-heat treat (nitride). You can guess, about a 100 laps and a Schubek lifter broke through, everthing went to pieces. (literally) So, all that BS to say this, when I hear people downgrade a builders heads, cam, or part selection, there’s often a lot more to the picture that made things not work out.
 
(quoted from post at 20:54:38 08/28/13) Large diameter lifters do not mean a builder can arbitrarily put in a radical profile with a steep ramp; materials, heat treating, and, matching surface hardness are critical. For flat tappet cams using .875 or .904 lifters with moderate profiles we’re running valve springs with 500 lb over the nose, $360/set, steel core cam, $750, and PPPC steel billet lifters w/casidium coating and an EDM oil hole @ $900/set. So, yes, a larger lifter certainly allows a much more radical cam profile, but it isn’t cheap. Camshaft profile is an interesting topic but requires evaluation of at least 11 key factors in engine performance. Piston crown, chamber shape, chamber volume (the whole upper configuration and comp ratio), intake runner volume, runner profile (desired flow velocity), rocker ratio, max valve lift, piston speed, lifter dia, top engine RPM, and desired max torque RPM. My experience is primarily circle track engines but I’m guessing the power curve for pulling with a naturally aspirated lower RPM engine, isn’t that much different. Power on the low end (torque) with a steady increase in HP up to max RPM. I’ve only begun my first two tractor engines, so we’ll find out if racing actually translates or I’m just full of it. On our used but not abused parts shelf are cams from Comp, Crower, Isky, and Bullet. All worked well when matched to the engine configuration and RPM range being used. One of the bigger mistakes I see is people just copying something they have seen or heard about without thinking it through and optimizing all factors, usually ending up with a bad power curve. The other issue I see is guys are not taking the time to degree in the cam so the engine can operate in the productive part of the power band. Usually cams are installed too late, too high int centerline deg so the engine bogs down low and they think they have a bad cam. A street stocker dropped off a motor last month, sure enough, the cam was in at 102 and should have been 98 or 99. I’ve only had one mfg with a poor cam which was actually bad workmanship, steel core w/roller lobe blanks, ground to a flat tappet profile, but neglected to re-heat treat (nitride). You can guess, about a 100 laps and a Schubek lifter broke through, everthing went to pieces. (literally) So, all that BS to say this, when I hear people downgrade a builders heads, cam, or part selection, there’s often a lot more to the picture that made things not work out.

Well said!
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top