farmall dist

Well, I can't get even close to what I want with what I have to work with.

I have a 22 deg dist, with the lightest springs from a recurve kit. Still takes 1500 rpm to get full advance.

I want a dist with between 16 and 20 deg of advance, but I want it all in by 800-850 rpm.

Not allowed to run a msd box.

I'm afraid that it will have trouble starting when hot on a hot day just running base timing.

So far, it does run best just with base timing and the advance tied.

I'm thinking lighter springs or heavier fly weights??? Are there any springs lighter than the recurve kit springs?

Any other ideas??
 
try a vertical mount delco distributor. totally different advance in em. i wondered if the drive gear could be swapped n ran horizonal.
 
ur vertical adapters (between distributor and the gear drive) on two cylinder deeres and allis chalmers will bolt to it and u can use a delco distributor
 
Well, I can't get even close to what I want with what I have to work with.

I have a 22 deg dist, with the lightest springs from a recurve kit. Still takes 1500 rpm to get full advance.

I want a dist with between 16 and 20 deg of advance, but I want it all in by 800-850 rpm.

Not allowed to run a msd box.

I'm afraid that it will have trouble starting when hot on a hot day just running base timing.

So far, it does run best just with base timing and the advance tied.

I'm thinking lighter springs or heavier fly weights??? Are there any springs lighter than the recurve kit springs?

Any other ideas??

I understand that you are probably experimenting and I don't know what size engine you have but trust me, you do not "want" your timing to be all in at 800 rpm unless you are only running around 10 degrees total timing
 
Well, I'm running a 281 motor. I don't have use
of a dyno right at the moment, but when I had it
here, it seemed to do well with timing locked
and set at 20-21 deg. Made good power from wide
open down through to 1000 rpm anyway. I played
with the dist at 1500 rpm and at 1200 rpm and it
seemed to like the same timing. With some better
tools I can be a little more accurate the next
time I have the dyno.

I changed dist last night to the 22 deg with
light springs. Started with a base timing of -1
and full advance was 21 at about 1500. It ran
and sounded like $h!t untill it got at least 10
deg of timing in it. That was at 800-900 rpm.
This motor seems to want timing down low, but
not too much up top.

Like I said, with better tools, next time I have
the dyno I will be able to get more accurate,
but I have a good idea what it wants right now,
and that's a small amount of advance coming on
quickly.
 
try at 15 base. mind ya that when the advance kicks all in, itll jump up to 37 degrees at 15, which will result in power loss on the dyno. BUT, if your overpowering the wheels now, its a good way to take a lil power out of em so they will hook up easier and has gained distance on the track. think of it as a shock absorber! been running a 400+ci smta on dyno n set at 15 base, no advance, set the timing at 1000 engine rpm n she runs just fine! pto wont handle it unless a big guy hangs on the pto lever to keep it enguaged. lol.
 
I've been looking and asking the same questions about springs. to no avail.

How can a person determine what max mechanical advance is in the distributor just by looking at or in the Distributor?
 
Stock springs for a A symbol distributor (40 advance) should get you about 19 degrees at 800 RPM. Thats starting with a TDC setting with the engine stopped or turning slow enough that the advance doesn't start. Doesn't matter that the springs are for a 40 degree advance since you are limiting the top.
 
In the distributor there is a plate above the weights that will have a number stamped on it for the advance. My Farmall H has a 20 on the plate indicating 20 degrees total advance.
 

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