John deere 730

Head/manifold matching,straight stack, valve bowl cleanup, 830 valves,5 angle valve job. Dry air filter element.Cam re-grind. Late 6X 12 thous 820/830 injector tips. Heavier valve springs.
Maybe 80HP at 1500rpm. Lots of extra torque however at 1000rpm.
 
I run my R to 1500 with only 2 mains & a much longer stroke. I wouldn't batt an eye running it to 1800-2000. rpm REALLY produces results on mine & its ALL unmolested factory parts. A cam & head work alone should give 80 HP from a 730 I'd say? I get 62-64 from the R just spinning it fast & full open fuel rack, k&n filter. That's on the crankshaft via a belt dyno.
 

You will need a better camshaft and all the intake improvement you can give it..plus re-working the injectors and that includes a higher Cracking Pressure..
Should end up being as sensitive to any load as a healthy Gasoline counterpart..
You should not need an "open Rack", if it is properly "Built"..and it will not smoke like a freight train, either..

Ron..
 
Hey buickanddeere u seem pretty sharp on the. 2cylider diesels i am in the process of overhauling my 730 diesel my question is which valves do u use from an 820 intake or exhust or both but from what i could see is there isn't a whole lot of room to put in an intake valves from an 820 due to being tight by the fire ring or cylinder wall and on the other side its darn close to the injector bore the the exhaust side i think u could put in the bigger valve there seems to be enough room the other question i was wondering about is the injector spray patter on an 820 is 160 degrees versus on a 730 the spray pattern is 140 degrees. I wouldnt put 820 injectors in due to u and may have the possibility of scoreing a piston if im not mistaken the spray pattern has to mach the mushroom top on the top of the piston im wondering since the 820the a longer stroke if thats the reason for the 160 spray pattern
 
I don't know about the 720's or 730's as far as how much room you have and all... but I'd guess worst case you'd need to do something like this to make room for bigger valves. This set up below uses a factory head gasket.

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You might want to lay a head gasket on your head then see how big the gasket itself would let you go for valves. Take into account the little extra you'll need to go for the seat... Then you'll just need to wallow out some room for the bigger valves in your block... if even required? The piston rings don't go up high enough into the bore to have issues with your clearance spots for the valves.

You'd want to sort of taper or blend your clearance into your bore.
 
Which 820?
There was the 67HP 820 with the 80 engine using 10mm pumps and fiveX10 thou 160 degree tips. And pistons with a wide shallow bowl.
The late 75HP 820 used the 830's 13mm pump, 6X12 thou 140 degree tips. Bowl in piston is narrower and deeper.
830 intake and exhaust work just fine in a 730.
The valve bowl shape and valve seats will make or break the conversion.
 

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