atwater

Member
bought this AR puller recently. looks like a fair amount of clearance work has been done but the cam appears to not have been notched. assuming a 3" pin and billet rods how long of a crank do you think should fit? i also have a 6-3 PB sitting here in need of new sleeves + pistons.
trying to sell a 51 mi and 43 a to help raise funds.
 
forgot to add photos.
i had not noticed until i took the cover off but they had a patch on top of the case between the crankcase cover and govenor.
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Something doesn't look right. It doesnt come close to hitting the crankcase cover. My guess someone put the stock crank back in. But anyhow stock rods 7 3/4 with cam notch, 9 3/4 with 4020 rods and cam notch. Go big or go home:)
 
yes it is the stock stroke hence why it needs some"help"
i have never stroked one before and was wondering how much stroke could be safely run with a clearanced cam and what has already been done to the case.
can a powerblock be bored and resleeved to 6.5 and still be reliable? or are you stuck with the typical 6.125?
 
If you want a reliable crank, go with a 9" or 9.125" with a 3" pin. There are some 9.25"/3" pin out there, but you'll probably break camshafts.

As far as your 6-3 powerblock, I'm not sure a 6.5" sleeve can be fitted in there. The earlier blocks are much better to work with because there's only 6 block-to-crankcase bolts to work around instead of 8. Also, the chances of having sleeves welded in and not leaking water are pretty slim. If you do go that route, I suggest using a cast or ductle iron sleeve material rather than a steel sleeve that typically has been used in blocks that have the welded-in-sleeves. If you want a reliable big bore block for a late A (to replace a 6-3), talk to Jeff at Murphys Motor Service. He has a good solution that works well. If you're on a budget and have to choose between a stroked crank or a big bore block, I'd do a stroked crank first, seems to get you more power/dollar spent. Good luck, Mike
 
(quoted from post at 23:58:02 12/19/11) bought this AR puller recently. looks like a fair amount of clearance work has been done but the cam appears to not have been notched. assuming a 3" pin and billet rods how long of a crank do you think should fit? i also have a 6-3 PB sitting here in need of new sleeves + pistons.
trying to sell a 51 mi and 43 a to help raise funds.

Someone else may chime in and correct me but I was thinking that the AR was quite a bit heavier than the A. The 43A might be a better choice to turn into a puller. The AR would also likely have more value to it and be able to put more $ into the 43A.

I've sleeved dozens of Powerblocks, most to 6.125" (you can bore them to 6.125", the ones I sleeved were broken sleeves), and several to 6.25". 6.375" looks doable (and rugged), but 6.5" looks to be pushing the limits a little.
 
tractor has already been modified quite abit fenders were bobbed. platform was modified as well. i think with no weight added this ar would be about 5000 lbs as is. of course with some work more could be dropped.
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(quoted from post at 01:55:31 09/19/12) Thanks, looks like a neat tractor. I'm getting more and more into variations from row crop models as pullers.
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not very good pics but the best i could find at the moment
 

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