John Deere pulling questions

Bradracer18 · May 4, 2012

A few general pulling questions, mostly John deere related:

I've got a john deere 70 so answer in regards to that.

1. Can a guy find aluminum rear wheels (where/price?) and if not, what does it take for the pressed steel wheels (and what size/dish do you want)?

2. Aluminum front wheels, how are guys putting these on with a 6 bolt front hub/stock hub.

3. Tractor has bad brakes....is there anything aftermarket/pulling related that I can throw on there...or should I just replace with stock components?

4. Weight brackets. I've got a good idea of how to build the front one, but anyone got any helpful pics? I've built the rear ones also, but looking for a way thats easy to remove yet uses all 4 studs. Also, can you use aluminum for the rear weight brackets....if you'd happen to need them removed for light class?

I'm sure I've got more questions but thats a good start...

Thanks!

CoopertownBob · May 5, 2012

(quoted from post at 22:17:54 05/04/12) A few general pulling questions, mostly John deere related:

I've got a john deere 70 so answer in regards to that.

1. Can a guy find aluminum rear wheels (where/price?) and if not, what does it take for the pressed steel wheels (and what size/dish do you want)?

2. Aluminum front wheels, how are guys putting these on with a 6 bolt front hub/stock hub.

3. Tractor has bad brakes....is there anything aftermarket/pulling related that I can throw on there...or should I just replace with stock components?

4. Weight brackets. I've got a good idea of how to build the front one, but anyone got any helpful pics? I've built the rear ones also, but looking for a way thats easy to remove yet uses all 4 studs. Also, can you use aluminum for the rear weight brackets....if you'd happen to need them removed for light class?

I'm sure I've got more questions but thats a good start...

Thanks!

We need to know what kind of classes you plan on pulling in to give the best answers.

730-LP · May 5, 2012

You need a set of adapter plates to bolt on your original hubs to bolt 9 bolt rims or alum on.As for the brakes just build what you have,they will be fine.You can get the tractor to where you can pull 5500# with out any Alum.

730-LP · May 5, 2012

picture maybe

TERRY HAYES · May 5, 2012

you BETTER have a big motor with all that aluminum you will be in the big boy classes

Bradracer18 · May 5, 2012

Thanks for the answers so far!

I plan to pull in the lightest class I can get this thing to, on up! So maybe 5500+.

I had seen some aftermarket brakes that I thought about, just wasn't sure if anyone had tried them or priced them. Mine are going to require some work and money so thought about going that route if going to be about same money.

and Terry....why do you say that? Does the use of aluminum put you into the open class for some reason? I haven't had time to look at the rules, but I will within a day or two. I plan to do some motor work, but haven't gotten there yet. I'm fairly confident the 70 can be made to pull with the "big boys" you speak of.

jdeere70 · May 5, 2012

There are plenty of 9 bolt hubs around to fit a
70. Same as 4010-3 1/8 diamater no adapter needed.

TERRY HAYES · May 5, 2012

Yes around here central and southern il. rules dont allow wheels tranny tops etc. in just kinda check out rules where you want to pull and go have fun because there is a lot of fun and nice people to meet like i say depends on where you live and the rules

blackangus · May 5, 2012

Pull a 70 in 5500 alum wheels lot of cubes not its best class

TERRY HAYES · May 5, 2012

put that pretty wheel money in your motor start with a lot of STROKE you wheel be much happier

Bradracer18 · May 6, 2012

Who is considered the go to guy when it comes to the 70 motor?

Theres a local tractor here that's got around 110-120hp, but I'm not sure what all was done. I think its bored and stroked to the max (crankcase modified), a special ground cam, and some other work that included welding something (like a void) inside the engine/head then grinding it back flat for more compression/power.

Anyways, what are the suggested modifications? And I'm curious, when you get one somewhat modified, does it become a big pain in the @ss and require tons of maintenance. We do a lot with motorcycles/atv's and when you modify the engine on them, it requires a lot of work in checking valves often, rings, etc.

buickanddeere · May 6, 2012

Cutting the 70 into a puller only or still going
to do odds jobs on the farm?
It"s a shame to cut up a duplex carbed 70 with
live hydraulics, optional live pto and optional PS.
When a G has the same gearing, engine style and
weighs less. And won"t be missed from farm work when
it lacks live hydraulics and live pto.

Bradracer18 · May 6, 2012

I agreed. However, we don't use these old tractor except to run a truck auger every now and again. If need something with hydraulics, we are usually using an 8400 or 8330 JD, or we have 4020, 4430, etc.

I'm in process of looking at a few G's, so I may end up going that route and keep the 70 for a restore job. I haven't decided quite yet.

730-LP · May 6, 2012

oops was thinking of a G

jd b puller · May 7, 2012

(quoted from post at 15:08:18 05/06/12) Cutting the 70 into a puller only or still going
to do odds jobs on the farm?
It"s a shame to cut up a duplex carbed 70 with
live hydraulics, optional live pto and optional PS.
When a G has the same gearing, engine style and
weighs less. And won"t be missed from farm work when
it lacks live hydraulics and live pto.

The G is a much more desirable tractor for collectors and pullers. I can't remember the last time I saw a 2 cylinder working in the field. The 70 can be bought for 1/3 the price of a styled G.

Using the logic that the better farm tractor shouldn't be used for pulling, he should go find an unstyled G. yes, a good choice for a puller, but the upfront cost could buy a lot of motor work on the styled G or 70.

the 70 is a heavier tractor, but has more potential in the heavier classes.

Bradracer18 · May 7, 2012

yep, I plan to lighten it up a bit. I see on the rear is the pto gear box and the hydraulic gear box (if that's what it is), I'm wondering if the big plate that holds both of these to the rear end can be removed, and a piece fabricated back in place? Or are there gears that will still be protruding past "flat" on the rear axle housing? I was just thinking this would be a good way to save some weight and get rid of components that are currently leaking a small amount of oil, and I'd be tempted to fix the gasket soon if not remove.

buickanddeere · May 9, 2012

We pull the dump wagon for picking stones every
spring with the 70 gasser. The small grains are
planted with the 720 D standard.
Had problems with the 4050 one day so we hauled
the grain wagons to the elevators with the 80.
Baffled a whole bunch of folk around the place
who had no idea what ind of tractor it even was.

jdA puller PA · Jun 30, 2012

as for your weight bracket questions, I made rear brackets out of either 8x6 or 8x8 inch i-beams, cut in length to fit between the pto and the rear wheels. setting on its side, drilling four holes for your axle studs allows for the top beam plate to mount directly onto the axle. very simple to put on/off.

i also have a front bracket in addition to a belly bar...drop plates are bolted to 3 holes in frame right under spark plugs...then long plate of thick flat steel runs through them to allow weights to be hung under crank of tractor, entire width of the tractor.

John Deere pulling questions

Bradracer18

Member

CoopertownBob

Member

730-LP

Member

730-LP

Member

TERRY HAYES

Member

Bradracer18

Member

jdeere70

Member

TERRY HAYES

Member

blackangus

Member

TERRY HAYES

Member

Bradracer18

Member

buickanddeere

Well-known Member

Bradracer18

Member

730-LP

Member

jd b puller

Well-known Member

Bradracer18

Member

buickanddeere

Well-known Member

jdA puller PA

New User

Similar threads