What are the BEST antique tractors to build into a puller ??

Anonymous-0 · Aug 22, 2010

Im looking for opinions on some of the better tractors (and models) for building an antique puller out of. Thanks for your input !!

jd plowboy · Aug 22, 2010

minneapolis moline is one of the easiest ones to do. you can interchange so many parts from other molines and build hp and torgue.

Anonymous-0 · Aug 22, 2010

Any particular Molines you would recommend as good candidates?

jd b puller · Aug 22, 2010

All depends on your rules and your budget, what weight class, and speed limit. Pretty tuff to build something light that can do what a 77 Ollie with a 310 can do, esp for the money.

Like Robbie said, MM's are great for interchanging parts with little or no mods required.

For the bigger stuff, esp open class, the MM's are tuff to beat. the bigger ones are like taking 3 Deere blocks, turning the engines so they face up and turning them faster RPM's.

For MPH classes, you can make about anything work, if your budget is tight, pick something with slow transmissions. HP = Force*Velocity -- takes 3 times the HP to go 9MPH as 3MPH, etc.

If you're looking at NATPA type rules, check out the results pages, that should give you an idea what's out there. Again, depends on your budget, you can drop $25-$35k in an engine if that's what you want.

MH55 · Aug 22, 2010

One drawback for molines: Weight...

Takes an extreme diet to get a MM U down to 4500lbs...

Oliver 88 makes 4000 as easy as U makes 5500, Massey 44 makes 4500 without stripping anything...

What classes you want to play in make a big difference on what can be turned into a great puller... Have seen all colors do very well when things are done right...

Anonymous-0 · Aug 22, 2010

812,, MM model u a ton of parts are interchangable big power for little money or pull a stock one it will fit on a small trailer and 3/4 ton pickup no problem the ollies are tuff at 4000,4500 range, what weight class you are planing pull in we need to know to help

VicS · Aug 22, 2010

Their is a big U for sale on here a few pages back. 77 to 880 olivers are at every pull I go to. Also 460 560 IHC are cheap because 301 engines are selling for junk in combines. There is also a lot of Allis WC WD WD45, You can get late model engines from combines for them too. I don't think there is any best.

Anonymous-0 · Aug 22, 2010

I have seen every brandpull good in their respective classes, more aftermarket performance parts for Oliver, IH ,jd and MM than for Case,MH ect.

Shawn W · Aug 22, 2010

Well i'm a Minneapoils Moline man. Everybody tells you that parts just interchange and you can build big horsepower.
But they just weigh alot and unless you have all those parts laying around, it becomes quite expesive to buy all you need.
I would suggest getting what ever brand your dad or grandfather farmed with, and start with that.
You can build a nice sized 90 horse IH M for what you will spend buying all the parts to assemble a 95 horse "G" in a U chassis.
And if you do it right you are going to have machine shop work in anything you build. If your wanting to stay mostly stock I know you can still buy kits for and overbore "M" right from your CaseIH dealer. And Korves has all the parts on the shelf to build and overbore Oliver. So just pick what ever you want and start from there. I know I have been beaten by everybrand out there. But its all about just having FUN, and being able to load it back on the trailer in one peice to go home.
Good luck

Lamont · Aug 22, 2010

You can build a competitive puller out of any brand. I'd suggest going with what you prefer first. Along with that I'd suggest trying something less popular. Who wants something like "everyone" else has? Dare to be different. (Be careful with that last statement!)

Low96hb · Aug 23, 2010

(quoted from post at 19:39:45 08/22/10) Im looking for opinions on some of the better tractors (and models) for building an antique puller out of. Thanks for your input !!

Its hard to beat a Oliver 77 with the right parts...

Kip-Utah · Aug 23, 2010

This is somewhat like asking what type of girl makes the best wife. Everyone has their own oppinion! But for me my wife is the best & my WC Allis' are my choice for pulling. I have beat & been beat by most other colors!! Pick your favorite & talk to the guys pulling that kind for advice, as most will be helpful. I did this for a friend & now his A-Cs are the ones I usually have to beat to win!!! Good luck. Kip

1945GMPULLER · Aug 23, 2010

An AC G pulls good in the 8500#

jd plowboy · Aug 23, 2010

if you can do any mechanical work at all then to get close to that 90 hp U moline all you got to do is buy a G power unit and change out all the parts to the u chassie. that is alot cheaper than building a 90 hp M farmall. i have seen the power units on here for 6 to 700 in price. my opinion would be the moline cause i got one and my brother has the 403 that came out of mine in his and it is very hard to beat. if you know how to work the throttle it has the torque to pull with.

MH55 · Aug 23, 2010

Some clubs wont allow tall jugs in U chassis. No 800 heads, etc...
All depends on where you want to play...

MH55 · Aug 23, 2010

Some clubs wont allow tall jugs in U chassis. No 800 heads, etc...
All depends on where you want to play...

jd plowboy · Aug 23, 2010

in that case you can use 336 jugs and offset grind the crank and use the u rods and be about the same in cubes

jd plowboy · Aug 23, 2010

i would get a U moline cause you can pull it from 5500 to 7500 easy and have the power. mine with the 403 pulled better the heavier it was.

MH55 · Aug 23, 2010

If you are going to change jugs and offset grind the crank why not bore the stock jugs and add sleeves... Offset grinds aren't cheap and 336 jugs are nowhere near as plentiful as 283 jugs...

Point being, ANY color can be built into a good puller...

An Oliver 310 repower is Just as easy as MM repower, maybe easier, same for C301 in a Farmall 60 series...

At 3500 an WC/WD/D17 Chalmers or Oliver 77 would be great...

At 4500 an 88 or M or 44 or or or...

Are we building for NATPA, USAP, Brush Pulls, ITPA. What years are you allowed to pull, What weight classes, What speed limit?

Shawn W · Aug 23, 2010

I guess i just dont know how many people would be lucky enough to find a perfectly good running 403 power unit, that didnt need rebuild for $700. I have know idea where he is from, but if he is anywhere close to me here in central Illinos, you might find a running 403 power unit, but im sure it came from someplace else, and when your buying stuff like that, who knows what you got. And if you want to build a pulling tractor why not do it right the first time instead of half a$$ing it and having to rebuild and fix it again next year. He said he wanted to build one, so i figured he would start from the ground up and build it himself, not buy something already build. But I guess it all depends on what class you wanna pull, low gear, pure stock, maybe super farm, or modified stock, maybe even an open puller. Either way it was a loaded question and its still up to him what he want to build. Maybe he should check his rules and see if you can use 800 or G block in the class he wants to run. I know in some of the classes around here they dont want you to run the 336 block in the stock class, but you can run a C281 block in an M, so that might make a big difference.

jd plowboy · Aug 23, 2010

you dont have to tell me what a moline costs to build cause i just had one built in 08 and i got a very good deal on it and it still wasnt cheap but cheaper than anyone else could have got it built. one thing for sure around here no one could out pull it so far. if i was going to spend the money again and built one i would go with the moline U again cause i know what mind will do and everyone else also casue they hated to see it pull up at the pull. and it had a little motor in it.

Mopower · Aug 24, 2010

What weight would you like to pull? What speed?

Mopower · Aug 24, 2010

For the most competition, use a U or UB in 5500. A U is a little lighter and some are better than others. Many gear options too! 5-star is fun, but harder to lighten up.

As for light classes, a little R or a heavier Z can be tough, but not in super hot fast classes. Then a 335/445 might be a better option.

Mopower · Aug 24, 2010

My UB dynoed 98hp. It is a 403 with used .060 pistons, untouched bottom end, stock 4210 heads, LP manifolds, stock carb with late 336 venturi, and a $165 Berry cam. Dad and I put it together out of two old tractors. No more than $2500 in the whole deal. ($1000 of it was tires, cutting, and rims.) I've sold three complete 403 power units for $500 each. I have a newer 336 for sale now. Paid $750 for a clean rebuilt sawmill 403 and $1200 for a complete 4.81" bored 403 with puller cam. If you are patient and talk to folks, you can get deals and compete well. Been playing this way for years. Tires and wheels are what gets ya, but again, hunt around. My best tires have been freebies!

What are the BEST antique tractors to build into a puller ??

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