CONNECTING ROD SHORTENING

if my high rpm thoughts are the same as youres . you would be better off with a billet set made the length you need.
 
Tell us what you're building. Somebody on here might now of a rod that has the right length and jor. size for you.
 

Generally, you want to run the longest rods you can fit in the engine, for many reasons...

Longer rods reduce side-thrust on the cylinder walls and increase dwell time at TDC and BDC due to rod angularity...also reduces peak piston speed..

Changing rod length can change cam requirements..

Agree, ml..???

Ron..
 
(quoted from post at 09:27:28 11/24/09)
Generally, you want to run the longest rods you can fit in the engine, for many reasons...

Longer rods reduce side-thrust on the cylinder walls and increase dwell time at TDC and BDC due to rod angularity...also reduces peak piston speed..

Changing rod length can change cam requirements..

Agree, ml..???

Ron..
cam change yes . the only thing i take into consideration is piston speed when choosing rod length . i like the piston to be jerked away from tdc and be at 4 to 5000 fpm at my peak rpm. longer rod shorter piston skirts shorter rods longer skirts kinda works out that the piston doesnt rock anymore with either setup. I think they was a great misunderstanding of what smokey stated on rod length . I think some have decided they are helping there build by stuffing or craming a long rod and loosing piston quality due to pin being moved up into ring lands and verry little skirt. I think the rod simply connects the piston to the crank it will affect the speed of the piston and can change the airflow due to the valve timing events being ahead or behind the apropriate crank angle. thats my storry and i am sticking to it .
 
(quoted from post at 11:12:18 11/24/09)
(quoted from post at 09:27:28 11/24/09)
Generally, you want to run the longest rods you can fit in the engine, for many reasons...

Longer rods reduce side-thrust on the cylinder walls and increase dwell time at TDC and BDC due to rod angularity...also reduces peak piston speed..

Changing rod length can change cam requirements..

Agree, ml..???

Ron..
cam change yes . the only thing i take into consideration is piston speed when choosing rod length . i like the piston to be jerked away from tdc and be at 4 to 5000 fpm at my peak rpm. longer rod shorter piston skirts shorter rods longer skirts kinda works out that the piston doesnt rock anymore with either setup. I think they was a great misunderstanding of what smokey stated on rod length . I think some have decided they are helping there build by stuffing or craming a long rod and loosing piston quality due to pin being moved up into ring lands and verry little skirt. I think the rod simply connects the piston to the crank it will affect the speed of the piston and can change the airflow due to the valve timing events being ahead or behind the apropriate crank angle. thats my storry and i am sticking to it .
i should have said also the faster the piston moves away from tdc the greater the deprssion under the intake valve is. thats my storry and i am sticking to it. its a debate that continues among the largest engine builders .
 
(quoted from post at 00:55:21 11/23/09) Who is good at shortening connecting rods? Engine will be subjected to high RPM's...Thanks for any help.

The piston pins need raising instead of shortening the rods.
 
Thanks to those who replied to my origional question..I"ll give a little more information. I can"t raise the pin any, my comp. height on my pistons is only 1.11". My connecting rods are 7.81" center to center. My pistons have such a short skirt that they tend to seize in the cylinder.{not good]. I have a perfect set of pistons with a CH of 1.43" which are a longer piston, so a 7.50" con rod would work out perfectly. Crank pin of 2 1/16"
with a 1" bearing and a small block chev pin hole.
 
(quoted from post at 07:13:56 11/25/09) Thanks to those who replied to my origional question..I"ll give a little more information. I can"t raise the pin any, my comp. height on my pistons is only 1.11". My connecting rods are 7.81" center to center. My pistons have such a short skirt that they tend to seize in the cylinder.{not good]. I have a perfect set of pistons with a CH of 1.43" which are a longer piston, so a 7.50" con rod would work out perfectly. Crank pin of 2 1/16"
with a 1" bearing and a small block chev pin hole.
ALLIS WD 45 ROD IS 7.5 LONG 2 3/8 JOURNAL a man might be able to reduce it to a 2 1/16 cap wither youre bearing and side clearance would work correctly ? .farmall has some 7 1/4 allis buda rod 2 inch journals 7 3/8 long . i am glad you posted youre promblem seams to agree with some of my prior statements in the post. if i can help feal free to contact me.
 
(quoted from post at 07:38:09 11/25/09)
(quoted from post at 07:13:56 11/25/09) Thanks to those who replied to my origional question..I"ll give a little more information. I can"t raise the pin any, my comp. height on my pistons is only 1.11". My connecting rods are 7.81" center to center. My pistons have such a short skirt that they tend to seize in the cylinder.{not good]. I have a perfect set of pistons with a CH of 1.43" which are a longer piston, so a 7.50" con rod would work out perfectly. Crank pin of 2 1/16"
with a 1" bearing and a small block chev pin hole.
ALLIS WD 45 ROD IS 7.5 LONG 2 3/8 JOURNAL a man might be able to reduce it to a 2 1/16 cap wither youre bearing and side clearance would work correctly ? .farmall has some 7 1/4 allis buda rod 2 inch journals 7 3/8 long . i am glad you posted youre promblem seams to agree with some of my prior statements in the post. if i can help feal free to contact me.
I cant believe I am not getting as much static from saying the same thing that got so much static in a archived post on rod length. just shows when people get informed it reduces arguments.
 
Thanks again. I may look into the AC rods. I failed to mention earlier with my stroker crank, cam and block clearence is an issue. The AC rod may not clear. oldollieman
 

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