52 A crank clearance advice

jpick87 · Jul 8, 2009

I was hoping I could grab some advice on what kind of grinder would be best to do the grinding on the top of the case. I have the holes cut in the back and just got the rods in today to see where they would be hitting. Its just really tight in there and I dont know what kind of tool/grinder would be best to work in that tight spot, and if there is any other advice you guys that have done this before can give me that would be much appreciated!! I am very intimidated by this it looks like I will be very close to coming through the case to make it fit, this is my first build. I dont know if it helps or not but its a 9" crank with 3" journals.

Thanks

jdth · Jul 8, 2009

I used both a die grinder and a right angle die grinder on the top. Used a carbide rasp to rough in and coarse flap wheel to smooth/finish. Take your time. Double check as you go. It will get thin on top. Don"t forget to double check the clearence of the cam.

jd b puller · Jul 8, 2009

Pick, for most of it, I used a right angle grinder (4-5"). Use the right wheel for the job. A GRINDING wheel is 1/8" - 1/4" thick, a CUTOFF wheel is 1/16" or less. Spend the extra money on the better wheels, they last longer and cut faster. As JDTH said, a die grinder can be useful, but the angle grinder should get most of it.

Hear me now and believe me later --> wear some sort of dust mask, and preferably tight fitting goggles. And ear plugs (keeps your hearing good, and the metal out of your ears).

When you're done, flush every thing out really good. Then go to the hardware store and buy 2-6 magnets and put them in the bottom of the case and wash again. You won't believe all the metal dust you'll find even when you think it's clean.

jdajdgpuller · Jul 8, 2009

One small piece of advice, make sure you go big enough. When we made the holes and pans for the back of the crank case we made them too small and then had to grind on them too. Go plenty big in the back, there is really no limitation. As far as the top goes, we used a regular bench grinder to knock off the bigger portion and then used a 90 degree air tool to clean up the rough spots. Good luck.

Big Jugs · Jul 8, 2009

As i mentioned before, use an engine stand, take the case apart from the rear, and fram from the case. mont case to stand so you can rotate it so you can see the top clearly when its rotated to the bottom.It helps greatly to see wht you"re actually doing. I said I have extra stands.

Barnheater · Jul 8, 2009

In addition to what the others used, I also used a air hacksaw especially on the rear holes, it allowed me to make nice square corners. I took a hose that was a grease hose (new of course) for a throwout brg. and threaded that into the tool then threaded the coupler for the air hose onto the end. That way your air hose isn't right on the end of the saw and it allows for alot more room at the end of the saw. And YES wear good tight fitting goggles.

jpick87 · Jul 9, 2009

that engine stand idea sounds like it would just save literally hours being able to rotate it right where you need it and get at things better... there any particular time that you are free to come pick one up? let me know when its best im free after 330 usually or I do have this weekend off, im busy sat but sunday is wide open.

Thanks for the advice everyone who chimed in!!

Big Jugs · Jul 9, 2009

Either fri. befor 7, or else sun. before noon, or I"ll just leave it sit outside by the milkhouse.

jpick87 · Jul 9, 2009

I can let you know tomorrow, my truck is in the shop on a deer hit so I will need to find someones truck to borrow.

52 A crank clearance advice

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