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Pulling hitch

K

KJF470

Member
Would anyone be willing to share some photos or designs of a good pulling hitch set up for a John Deere G? I am trying to use the original frame work and come up with an easily adjustable pulling hitch. Is there a website somewhere that has instructions on how to build a good sturdy safe hitch someone could point me to? I already have a good d-ring, just looking for some ideas for the rest of the hitch.

Thanks in advance!
 
Open your email, I"ll send some pictures of a steel Cover/Hitch for a G & an aluminum one for an A.
 
I would be interested in seeing those pictures also, I have a JD70 that needs a better hitch design. Thanks in advance!
 
Here are the ones that i build
a849.jpg
 
does it bolt under the bottom on the bolts that held the drawbar frame?...if you're pulling on those little bolts that hold the cover on you must be low on power...my "G" would rip that off the back in one pass...LOL...Kent
 
I AGREE KENT, That hitch would not pass our safety committee unless it was tied in under the bottom of the tractor.
 
We have hitches in SD out of aluminum with a cross bar going into the drawbar bolts on a G without issues. There are 4 more going out soon, 3 for 70's & one for a G. The steel ones don't use the crossbar. 15 "Little" 7/16" Grade 8 bolts hold up very well. Have yet to see one pull out. Yes, from MN. My "little" A pulled with an aluminum one all year without issue also.
 
They have passed NATPA Division 3 a number of times, without issue. I have seen people tie the bottom holes to a tie-rod running to the bottom block bracing, more for block & crank case strength.
 
That's a good one, the biggest brush pull ever organizer gets on here and bashes a good looking hitch design? Now I would understand it if a red tractor had a hitch like that, it obviously wouldn't pass "tech"!
 
They don't enforce anything at Tunica! They have no safety committee, no people looking at engines/rpms or half those people wouldn't be pulling!
 
i always new it didnt take much to hold a deere back . i dont think i would even tie my mare quarter horse up with that especially if i wanted to keep her out of the water melon patch.
 
If you were Teching at Tunica, Cecil Foley of Ky had a hitch very similar to these on his G. As memory serves, he didn't do too bad. Brad Begemann had one on his GVI out of aluminum.
 
thats funny because around here(South East South Dakota) I seen one simmalar to that on a 800-900 CI AJD and it made down the track just fine...
 
I AM USING ONE OF THOSE HITCHS ON MY 1938 G PULLING 6000 6500 AND 7500 POUND CLASSES GOING ON 6 YEARS AND HAVING NO TROUBLE AT ALL
 
Did you ever stop and think for a second that those 14 bolts that hold that cover on the back have A LOT more cross-sectional area than the one pin the drawbar pivots on??

I see nothing wrong with that drawbar setup. It should be a lot safer and more rigid than some of the other drawbars I have seen over the years.
 
Hey jdth! Tim, my apologies for this thread starting such a debate, this was not my intention. I was simply looking for some ideas on a good, safe, reliable, trouble free hitch and it took a turn somewhere. I can vouch for your hitch being safe and sturdy. We spoke at the pull in Nowthen in August. Being limited to a few weight classes I wanted to add more brackets and took my hitch and drawbar setup off and thought I could improve it. I was merely looking for some ideas to better my setup.
Again my apologies for any grief caused!

Kelly
 
didn't mean to start a pissing contest ...just trying to help ...all ya'll that like it BUY ONE...just take a minute & think the pivot point is Behind the back axle when the weight hits it the front is going strait up...front pivot point needs to be slightly in Front of back axle..transfers better & less weight to hold the front down...that weight can be put on the back where it counts...Kent
 
we don't play in a hay field down here in the MS. delta ..you ain't pulled nothing till you been in a black gumbo rice paddy... thats why in the rice fields we hook our disk & graham plows to the back cover instead of the drawbar....rrright...it's a nice looking cover but that all it is [a cover for the bull gears]...Kent
 
Let me put this in english for you. The 14 "little bolts" that hold the cover to the tractor will hold more than the ONE pivot pin that holds the hitch plate to the cover.

So, I dont care if you are pulling in a rice paddy or a hay field as you say, there is nothing wrong with that hitch design. You have to get over the fact that many little bolts will hold much more than a few larger ones.
 
A quick physics lesson:

As long as the drawbar is stationary (adjustments locked down so it can not move), IT DOES NOT MATTER ONE TINY BIT how it is attached to the tractor or where the pivot point for adjustment is.

You can take the drawbar pictured, and you can make one that attaches to the front wheels; and if they are both the same height off the ground, the same distance from the rear axle and neither flexes or distorts under load, THEY WILL PULL EXACTLY THE SAME!!!!!
 
There is now a 3 person safety committee that will be looking at a whole lot of things. Better check the rules. If it isn't right this year somebody will make a long trip just to be an observer.
 
Two questions:

1. Would you kick out this ligitimate type of drawbar system? I just read the rules and dont see how it is illegal.

2. What else are you going to kick out....are you still going to let AC"s turn the axle housings backwards? If so, just make sure the 18" long on the hitch is from the center of the wheel and not the axle housing.
 
I can tell that you've never been on a tractor ...take your physics & apply them correctly...I spent over 45yrs. on the farm [not in the pickup on the turnrow] but on the tractor & it makes a HUGE difference where the hitch point is if you want proper weight transfer...have a nice day & do the math right ...Kent
 
(quoted from post at 19:51:46 09/24/08) Two questions:

1. Would you kick out this ligitimate type of drawbar system? I just read the rules and dont see how it is illegal.

2. What else are you going to kick out....are you still going to let AC"s turn the axle housings backwards? If so, just make sure the 18" long on the hitch is from the center of the wheel and not the axle housing.
Click to expand...
I think they should make everyone run the oem front tire size also since youve sudgest not being able to turn the drops . them deeres seating tall in the front with no rake would have no chance.
 
You didnt read what I wrote, so I'll do it again. I was not taking about the hitch point between the sled and the tractor, that does make a difference in how weight transfers, but thats not what we are talking about.

Take 2 tractors that are identical other than the drawbar-tractor attachment point. Set the height on both to 20" high, and both to 18" long from the rear axle. You can have the drawbar on 1 tractor attached to the rear cover, and the drawbar on the other attached to the front frame, or anywhere way up front of the axle, or anywhere else for that matter. If they are both the same 20" high, and the same 18" long, they will load the tractor the same.

They will both work the same because the sled-tractor hook point is the same distance from where the tractor pivots when the front raises, which is the center of the rear axle.
 
hitches how about kill switches-ever seen one hooked at TUNICA-like the time adam had problems, what if a governor spring breaks,throttle body breaks, how you going stop a tractor with the power they have??????????????? big door at end big enough??
 
Drew ; I believe that you are sincere in what you write but I disagree [after much trial & error] it does make a difference where it is hooked...keeping this thread going is helping no one except the guy building them..so I agree to disagree OK...thanks & have a nice day...Kent
 
I see in another post where you think that I havent replied quick enough for you. Sorry, I cant get on the board everyday to answer your questions. I am getting to it as soon as I can.

Anyway, all I meant by what I said about turning the drops is to make d@mn sure that the 18" long for the hitch is measured from the center of the wheel and not the axle tube itself. Not necessarly in Tunica, but I have seen before where people obviously thought they could turn the drops back and measure 18 from the axle tube and not the wheel. THAT, I do have a problem with.

Its a speed limit class. Make the hitch right, the weight right, the tire size right, dont blow the horn. Its not rocket science.
 
Hey Dummy, Have you ever seen a pintle hitch attached to a huge dump truck that is capable of pulling a 40-50,000lbs trailer? It's attached with 4 (tiny) grade 8 bolts. That pulling hitch looks like a fine setup from where I'm sitting. The top bolts aren't going to take much of the load but the 4-6 on the bottom will handle it just fine.

Drew is correct on 100 percent of the things he has been trying to educate your ignorant bone head on. You are flat wrong on pretty much everything thus far but I'm sure you've become accustomed to that over the years.
 
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